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VILLAGE OF ORTA HISSAR 241
gave an indescribable strangeness to the village and
little drowsing plaza and groups of men sitting at
its foot. The greater number of these were dressed
in white, though here and there was a dash of
colour ; they sat in postures bespeaking the last
degree of placid contentment — some tilted back
against the wall, others with sprawled legs and
slippers fallen from their feet, and several lay upon
the ground. Life passed easily and pleasantly
enough for all, whatever pity their lot as Ottoman
subjects might excite in the western world. Nor
were they Moslems, and therefore contented by faith
and privileged above others. It scarcely needed
Ighsan's contemptuous monosyllable of " Rum
"
(Greek) to confirm their race. Their dark complexions
and raking profiles showed them of the
cave-dwelling race and oldest blood in the country.
One might travel far and look upon many ancient
scenes, and yet never find a spot giving a stronger
impression of remoteness and unchanged survival
from past centuries than did this open village-place
under the rock of Orta Hissar. It provided, so to
say, the reproduction of a past ancient beyond judging,
and for that a traveller may return thanks.
It was freezing hard when we reached the khan,
but my cell in the cliff was warm ; and I recognised
that those who had grown accustomed to cave-dwellings
might well be disinclined to change, and urge
advantages not apparent to others without experience
of the life. Indeed, when the A;/ian-keeper presently
told me the best room was vacant, and that I might
occupy it if I wished, I said I was lodged well enough
already, and had no desire for better quarters.