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;<br />

TIRED TRAVELLERS 207<br />

The hours stated are generally those taken by arabas,<br />

but they may be pack-horse hours, which have another<br />

value.<br />

The six hours to Injesu were said to be araha hours,<br />

and I imagined a distance little over twenty miles,<br />

such being other six-hour stages I had known. So<br />

I had started rather late, expecting to reach the<br />

village in the afternoon. But evening came on,<br />

and still was no sight of our destination ; though<br />

the weather had cleared somewhat, not even a distant<br />

minaret could be seen against the background<br />

of gloomy hills. The horse lagged, and so did<br />

its owner—man and beast were plainly weary. We<br />

were going now on one of those stone roads which<br />

cross a lava sheet, and darkness made its channelled<br />

surface dangerous for animals and pedestrians. Complete<br />

darkness fell and found us plodding on without<br />

the encouragement of having seen the place we aimed<br />

for. By some instinct the horse kept to a channel,<br />

and except for stopping now and then made better<br />

progress on this risky going than might have been<br />

expected. We on foot followed the horse's lead in<br />

single<br />

file.<br />

During a couple of hours Ighsan's reply to my<br />

question of how far to Injesu was " yarim sa' at "<br />

(half an hour). I asked twice at intervals, and<br />

getting the same reply, thereafter held my peace.<br />

He had been in and out of the place scores of times,<br />

and must have known where it was well enough<br />

but finding sarcasm in the repeated question, his<br />

dignity became ruffled. Besides, he was weary, and<br />

grew visibly more so with every mile. I could, indeed,<br />

well understand that he was touchy, for I was<br />

hungry and tired myself and inclined to question his<br />

guiding. Fever had pulled me down, and this longdrawn,<br />

stumbling walk in darkness and uncertainty<br />

did not make for evenness of temper ; furthermore, I<br />

had discovered an unpleasant feature of winter travelling<br />

with a pack-horse. Once upon the road there<br />

was no stopping, no halt at midday for a meal and

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