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XVI ILLUSTRATIONS MOUNT ARGAEDS AND KAISARIYEH, FROM THE NORTH Facing p. p 198 ROCK-HEWN VILLAGE OF URGUB, FROM THE VALLEY II 218 INHABITED CONES IN VALLEY OF GU^RJ^ME II 226 UGH HISSAR ROCK, FROM VALLEY . II 226 CONES IN VALLEY OF GUEREME, CAPPADOCIA II 228 A ROCK CONE AT MATY AN STREET FOUNTAIN, NEVSHEHR VALLEY AND ROCK-HEWN VILLAGE OF NAR ..... ALA DAGH ..... DUBEKJI KHAN ORTA HISSAR ROCK AND VILLAGE YELATIN KHAN. ENTERING CILICIAN ALA DAGH BEHIND GORGE AT AK KEUPRU BAGDAD RAILWAY WORKS IN THE CILICIAN GORGE TURKS AT DUBEKJI KHAN SHEPHERD AND FLOCK, CILICIAN PLAIN . . II 230 II 230 II 236 II 236 II 238 II 266 II 266 II 272 . II 276 II 304 II 304 CILICIAN GATES PASS. THE " GATE " IN THE BACKGROUNDD II 318 ST Paul's gateway, tarsus M 334 COTTON CARTS, CILICIAN PLAIN . II 342 CARRYING COTTON, ADANA II 342 OLD BRIDGE OVER THE SIHON, ADANA . II 344 WATER-CARRIERS, ADANA II 344 THE CONSUL, IBRAHIM, AND MUSTAPHA . . II 358 HIS EXCELLENCY AND IBRAHIM CHOWSHE . II 358 OLD BRIDGE OVER THE JIHON ON ROAD TO ZEITt>N . n 394 nomads' TENTS ON ROAD .... TO AINTAB GORGE ON ROAD TO ZEItOn ZBITCn during RAIN . II 394 • II 396 . II 398 A VIEW IN ZEITCN. "the BRIDGE " LEFT OF BUILDINGSS n 400 WHEAT BAZAAR, AINTAB .... MILL FOR CRUSHING WHEAT, KILLIS A VIEW IN ALEPPO II 408 II 408 • II 418 MEHMET, THE ZAPTIEH FOR ALEXANDRETTA II 418 ENTRANCE TO THE ...... CITADEL, ALEPPO II 424 LOCANTA, NEAR HAMMAM : TURKS SEATED, ARABS STANDING 436 OUTLINE MAP OF ROUTE At beginning
ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT. CHAPTER I. A Black Sea gale— First snow of -winter— I seem to have started too late — The Austrian Captain's views — The " Lord Bill " — The glamorous coast of Asia Minor— Alluring mountain-roads— I land at Samsdn for the Bagdad Road. On an afternoon of mid-October I stood in the lee of a deck-house aboard an Austrian Lloyd mail steamer, and looked over the Black Sea in its stormiest mood. Since leaving the Bosphorus, two days earlier, we had been driving against a wild north-easterly gale. It came fierce and grey from Russian steppes, bringing squalls of hail and rain, and whirling feathers of snow, and an edge of cold that spoke of winter being not far behind. Now and then the low-flying clouds opened to leeward, and showed glimpses of the mountainous Anatolian coast, fringed with spouting surf; above the surf appeared a narrow band of dark mountain-side, and then the glaring whiteness of newly fallen snow, whose lower edge made a level line when revealed in sufficient length. Gale, and hail, and rain might be seasonable enough, but this low-lying snow before its time filled me with misgivings. For I was on my way to cross Asia Minor A
Page 1 and 2: ! 00 ' ' . ^ %ss Asia Minof P-^"^"*
Page 4 and 5: Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORO
Page 7 and 8: Digitized by the Internet Archive i
Page 9 and 10: '' " ' Across Asia Minor on t(Jom W
Page 11 and 12: ; PREFACE. The journey described in
Page 13 and 14: PREFACE vii likely enemy agent. And
Page 15 and 16: — — 1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A Bl
Page 17 and 18: — — CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XIII. A
Page 19 and 20: — A CONTENTS xiii CHAPTEE XXVI. T
Page 21: ILLUSTRATIONS. WESTERN PRECIPICES,
Page 25 and 26: — — THE AUSTRIAN CAPTAIN'S VIEW
Page 27 and 28: SCENES OF CENTURIES AGO 5 the Ten T
Page 29 and 30: SEABOARD OF ASIA MINOR 7 you never
Page 31 and 32: m SAMStJN ROADS 9 had seen upon it
Page 33 and 34: ; SAMStJN 11 most valuable tobacco
Page 35 and 36: OUTBREAK OF CHOLERA 13 Baffra and S
Page 37 and 38: CHANGED PLANS 15 It had been my int
Page 39 and 40: AN UNEXPECTED COMPANION 17 bumping
Page 41: 1^^ |Sjife^ ML. PIt i ^^^u£i.- - ^
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Page 50 and 51: A 26 CHAPTER III. and its Tipping a
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Page 55 and 56: — A WEIRD BEGGAR 29 As we rose ou
Page 57 and 58: — KHAVSA 31 fitted stones, one su
Page 59 and 60: ABSENCE OF WOMEN 33 white shawls as
Page 61 and 62: DIFFICULTIES WITH CAMELS 35 the nor
Page 63 and 64: VINEYAEDS AND WALNUT GROVES 37 as m
Page 65: vStreet in Marsovan. In the Mission
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48 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of cre
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50 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hardly
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52 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT brough
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54 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT duties
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— 56 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a
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58 CHAPTER VI. Marsovan Mission Hos
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; 60 ACROSS ASIA MINOK ON FOOT buil
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; 62 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT doct
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— 64 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT la
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—! 65 CHAPTER VII. On Marsovan pl
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— BULGARIAN MOHADJIS 67 seemed to
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; A SINGULAR RAVINE 69 Europeans wh
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PICTUEESQUE AJVIASIA 71 width not f
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>
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! 74 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Had
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— 76 CHAPTER VIII. Arrested in Am
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" 78 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT he f
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; 80 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT him
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- 82 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thes
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84 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT So I f
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86 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT people
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LAND OF THE AMAZONS 87 and white go
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5
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90 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT contai
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! 92 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Mong
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94 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT were a
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96 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT evenin
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—; 98 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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100 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thoug
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102 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for i
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104 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to As
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106 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT About
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108 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT an ey
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110 CHAPTER XL Tokat—Dagger-weari
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112 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT trave
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114 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT whole
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116 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of Ar
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—; ACHMET AND THE SENTRY 117 last
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COMMERCIAL KHANS OF TOKAT 119 Here
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AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 121 It colours e
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; ON THE SOUTHWARD ROAD 123 ment of
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TOBACCO SMUGGLING 125 contrabandist
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A DANGEROUS PATHWAY 127 his judgmen
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MUSICAL BULLOCK-CARTS 129 beauty. N
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— 131 CHAPTER XIII. An unexpected
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KUMOURS OF MASSACRE 133 shutting of
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TURKISH TROOPS ON CHAMLI BEL 135 na
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PROMPT REPRESSIVE MEASURES 137 in h
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BELIEF IN THE EVIL EYE 139 these pe
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THE CORVEE IN OPERATION 141 corvee,
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143 CHAPTER XIV. Entering Sivas—A
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SIVAS—ARMENIAN MIGRATION 145 Turk
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1 H| . ' JF^ J ;^ ^^^^-. ^5iAi Ruin
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148 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT enoug
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; 150 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT her
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152 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT could
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: 154 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT has
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156 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the s
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158 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to be
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— 160 CHAPTER XV. Selecting anoth
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162 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and t
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164 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ties
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166 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a sen
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168 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT salut
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170 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and s
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172 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of ti
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— 174 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT f
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176 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT mitte
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: 178 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Asi
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my soul!— cried Mehmet, jumping 1
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— — I 182 CHAPTEK XVII. In Tala
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184 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT over
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; ALI DAGH AND ARGAEUS 185 Cross a
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AN ARMENIAN MONASTERY 187 Rain was
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A Greek ot Talas. «f^ •• ^^t
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I'JO ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT was
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192 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT stand
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SEEING KAISARIYEH 193 cure in the w
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TURKISH MILITARY OFFICERS 195 than
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THE CASTLE AND ITS DUNGEONS 197 the
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THE SITE OF MAXACA 199 to the site
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felt, BUYING IN THE BAZAARS 201 was
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A JEW-HATEE 203 the same hidden inf
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; INDISPENSABLE LUGGAGE 205 square,
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; TIRED TRAVELLERS 207 The hours st
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A BARBER'S SHOP RECEIVES US 209 the
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THE DRUMMER OF INJESU 211 A cup of
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— 213 CHAPTER XX. I leave lajesii
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A MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT 215 I could
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A LAND OF TKOGLODYTES 21'7 himself,
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INTEODUCTION TO CAVE LIFE 219 arche
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; ROCK-HEWN HOUSES 221 mysterious f
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DOOR OF A STRONGHOLD 223 stone had
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A PLEASANT MORNING 225 for I had he
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2> o
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228 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT apart
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230 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT which
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232 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT count
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234 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT taine
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236 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT —tw
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NAR: A PLEASANT VILLAGE 237 paths a
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Orta Hissar Rock and \'ilIaoe.
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240 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ourse
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242 CHAPTER XXII. Return to Injesu
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— 244 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT o
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246 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the o
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248 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT his f
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— 250 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT t
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— 252 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT d
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a; 254 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT on
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— 256 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT l
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258 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT outsi
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; 260 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT All
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262 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The s
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264 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Sever
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— 266 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT i
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; AT YELATIN KHAN' 267 as wild and
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FUNDUKLI KHAN 269 ingly broken wood
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THE BAGDAD RAILWAY 271 mere goat-tr
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i 't o i .:*. :^ ,-.. 'wm
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274 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Engli
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276 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT most
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THE WIXE-SHOP AT TOSAN ALI 277 skil
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— 279 CHAPTER XXV. Ulu Kishla—
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— "GERMAN CASTLES" 281 long stops
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HOTEL DE LA GARE AT KONIA 283 and m
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! EETURN TO ULU KISHLA 285 than oth
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287 CHAPTER XXVI. Turkish officers
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INDIGNANT TURKISH OFFICERS 289 how
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TURKISH OFFICERS AND MEN 291 which
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LOULON CASTLE 293 Gates, fifty mile
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"SPOKTMEN" ARRIVE 295 with beard tu
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A DROLL TURKISH CARTER 297 While th
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; A CIRCASSIAN DICK TURPIN 299 In t
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A SINGING TURKISH BAKER 301 finds a
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ARKIVE AT DUBEKJI KHAN 303 ment cur
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Turks at Duulnji is./', :3i. Shephe
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306 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and n
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308 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT had s
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— ; 310 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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312 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT many
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314 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT old g
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— 316 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT c
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A 318 CHAPTER XXVIII. Return to the
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; THE GATE OF HOLY WAR 319 short st
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— A SACRED TREE 321 flutter of ra
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; A QUARKEL WITH KNIVES 323 gesticu
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IN THE MYRTLE SCRUB 325 We left thi
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a CONSCRIPTS ON THE ROAD 327 by ole
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RAIN-SQUALLS AND MUD 329 him, and w
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— 331 CHAPTER XXIX. An old Tarsus
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ST PAUL'S AMERICAN COLLEGE 333 voic
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a OLD TAKSUS—THE CYDNtJS 335 rich
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OLD WAYS OF TRAVELLING 337 terranea
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MERSINA 339 but the tall Swiss lady
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— THE CILICIAN PLAIN 341 land and
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s?CW Cotton Caits, CilicKm l^la '"'
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344 CHAPTER XXX. Adana— On a flat
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ON A FLAT EOOF 345 of Ala Dagh and
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ARMENIANS OF CILICIA 347 benefit th
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MAJOR DOUGHTY-WYLIE 349 and coupled
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THE GREAT ADANA MASSACRE 351 ported
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— KILLING AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 353
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— I PAY OFF IGHSAN 355 well why t
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BEITISH CONSUL GOES WITH ME 357 As
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The Consul, Ibrahim, and Mustaph: H
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" — 360 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 362 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT Aft
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; 364 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT lay
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aCKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ^icism ov
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368 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the f
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370 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hours
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372 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for m
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374 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a hot
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376 CHAPTER XXXII. Still at Baghche
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— 378 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT o
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380 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT horse
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— 382 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT t
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384 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT now w
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386 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to de
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388 CHAPTER XXXIII. Marash—Fanati
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390 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Armen
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392 ACROSS ASTA MINOR ON FOOT Ameri
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394 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT defia
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ACCIDEXT TO MUSTAPHA 395 plain, and
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GorPL- on load to Zt-itun.
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398 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT siUTO
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— ZEITCN town and scenes 399 bung
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"^*y^. A view in Zeitim. "The Brido
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402 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT venti
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— 404 CHAPTER XXXIV. Marash eastw
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406 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of th
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— 408 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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Ff:EDING CAMELS 409 wonld do credit
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; SYRIAN SCENES 411 the zaptiehs so
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A QUAKREL AT THE KHAN 413 after rea
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; EOAD INTO ALEPPO 415 like that of
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INDIVIDUALITY OF ALEPPO 417 stone-b
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A \ iew ot Alt'ppo Mehmet, the'Zapt
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—; 420 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 422 ACROSS ASIA MINOE ON FOOT wit
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; 424 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tur
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— — 426 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FO
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: 428 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Car
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430 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT perma
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— 432 CHAPTER XXXYI. A strange Ar
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434 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT while
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436 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tachi
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A LONG-REMEMBERED PICTURE 437 As th
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VILLAGE OF KIRK KHAN 439 to the poi
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441 CHAPTER XXXVII. Morning in Beil
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; BEILAN PASS AND VILLAGE 443 the d
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— SCENES FAMOUS IN HISTORY 445 Ci
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THE ROAD TO ALEXANDRETTA 447 thence
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TOWN OF ALEXANDRETTA 449 Nor was th
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— ALEXANDER DRUMMOND 451 such dem
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ALEXANDRETTA AS A GERMAN PORT 453 t
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BATTLEFIELD OF ISSUS 455 standstill
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A BRITISH OPPORTUNITY 457 highway r
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— ON A BRITISH STEAMER 459 other
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