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106 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

About midway between Jelat and Tokat appeared<br />

the remains of an old stone bridge crossing the river.<br />

When I reached it a faint straight band became visible,<br />

going from the bridge up the distant slope ni the<br />

south, and crossing the summit in a little notch or<br />

hollow. If this were not a Roman road, it had everylook<br />

of one. Its northward aim, too, would bring it<br />

to the rich valley of the Lycus, a district of much<br />

Roman work. It might, in this land of abounding<br />

ancient remains and complete indifference to them,<br />

be as fine a Roman road as any existing, and yet have<br />

attracted no notice.<br />

It is not easy to say why, but on the roads of Asia<br />

Minor the passing of the Ottoman mail always creates<br />

interest. Every one watches its coming, watches<br />

it pass, and throws a glance backward when it has<br />

gone ; and I found interest in it myself, perhaps<br />

even greater than that of the natives. I fancy the<br />

cause had something to do with the unusual spectacle<br />

of haste in a land whose motto is "Yavash"<br />

(slowly).<br />

So now, when far in front of us a ball of dust<br />

appeared, Achmet pointed with his whip and cried<br />

''Posta!" with unusual animation. The ball grew<br />

larger and larger, though still too dense and too far<br />

off for anything it contained to be seen. But at last<br />

horses could be discerned dimly, and next a crescent<br />

flag fluttering bravely on a pole, and then the driver,<br />

and behind him vague bobbing figures in blue. The<br />

procession was travelling on one of those curious loops<br />

which all roads in the country show, w4iere traffic,<br />

weary of the ill-paved road, turns ofl* in fine weather<br />

and makes a parallel road perhaps fifty yards away.<br />

On such a loop the Ottoman mail, clothed with authority,<br />

now passed in its cloud of dust. The equipage<br />

consisted of one springless, unpainted, rattling waggon,<br />

drawn at a canter by two fine horses, with two<br />

zaptiehs in blue, rifle on hip, cantering close behind.<br />

But there was clatter, jingling, rapid movement, the<br />

fluttering crescent, the glinting of sunlight on arms ;

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