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—<br />

91<br />

CHAPTER IX.<br />

Market-folk at Amasia—Many races—Rock-dwellers—Begging children<br />

A professional<br />

Bazaar Khan—Zilleh and Julius Caesar.<br />

beggar—Wayside shop—A swaggering Kurd— Yeni<br />

LEFT Amasia on a morning when country-folk were<br />

I<br />

coming to market, and for miles I travelled against<br />

a stream of peasants and animals. In every land<br />

market-day provides the finest opportunity for studying<br />

the people ; but in Asia Minor, with its successive<br />

hordes of conquerors and invaders, and hostile<br />

faiths which prevent the mingling of blood, the<br />

crowded market-places make history visible.<br />

It may<br />

be questioned whether in an equal area and under<br />

one government so many different races can be found<br />

elsewhere.<br />

On market-day in any Anatolian town you see a<br />

people of such varied origin that no one type can be<br />

said to predominate. You could not even generalise<br />

and say that on the whole they were a dark people<br />

or a fair, or a blend of dark and fair. They are of<br />

every sort who ever came here, for blending is incomplete.<br />

On the road this morning I passed seven<br />

or eight hundred countrymen in an hour, and saw<br />

a people as diverse as history makes their origin.<br />

There were ruddy men with light-brown hair, redhaired<br />

men, albinos, rnen almost black, and others<br />

who were merely dark. In feature, too, was as much<br />

variety as in complexion. Some faces reminded of<br />

hawks, others were heavy and ill-formed, a few so

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