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—<br />

265<br />

CHAPTER XXIV.<br />

Southward from Bayam Dere—Pedestrian traffic—At Yelatin Khan—<br />

News of robbers—Expecting attack Zaptiehs in search—Fundukli<br />

Khan— Bozanti—The Bagdad Railway—German aims—The store<br />

at Ak Keupru—The Cilician Pass—The wine-shop at Tosan Ali.<br />

The one small window of the guest - room being<br />

closely shuttered I breakfasted in lamplight, and<br />

then stepped out into the surprising contrast of a<br />

morning as bright and clear and exhilarating as man<br />

has ever had the blessedness to know. For winter<br />

the 17th of December— it was the perfection of<br />

weather. Brilliant morning sunshine, the sky without<br />

a cloud, a touch of frost, and the air displaying<br />

that peculiar quality which, instead of softening<br />

distant objects, seems to make them sharp and hard,<br />

—it was good to be alive.<br />

In these conditions the great serrated wall of<br />

Ala Dagh, a liquid brown below, red and white<br />

above, stood clear - cut and glistening with the<br />

sparkle of ice here and there along its edges. Although<br />

this side of the range was in shadow, every<br />

lodgment of snow upon its ledges was visible, every<br />

detail of its ice-glazed cliffs and frosty summits.<br />

From the road to the foot of its stupendous precipices<br />

seemed no more than a mile, and yet, when I<br />

looked at the intervening valley bottom, it went<br />

rolling to the mountains in many folds, and a man<br />

who appeared on one of these nearer slopes was small<br />

indeed. With ideas of distance so corrected I thought

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