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SULTAN KHAN 175<br />

journey. But the harass I saw better, and knew I<br />

should remember always, for his attitude and watchful<br />

comprehensiv'e sweep of glance in passing were<br />

inimitable. If an abyss had suddenly opened before<br />

the araba I felt sure that somehow the kavass would<br />

preserve his master.<br />

Late in the afternoon the road crossed a ridge and<br />

then went gently down in a straight line for five miles<br />

to a cluster of willows and buildings below, where the<br />

smoke of evening fires was rising.<br />

"Sultan Khan," said Mehmet, pointing to the<br />

village with his whip and then glancing at the sky.<br />

From Sultan Khan to Kaisariyeh was the last day's<br />

stage for him, and the sky continued hot and cloudless<br />

; with these comforting thoughts he became almost<br />

cheerful. I entered the village khcm as hot and dusty<br />

and thirsty as on any previous day of the journey.<br />

Seven hundred years ago, in the great days of<br />

Sivas and Csesarea, sultans frequently used this road<br />

between the two cities ; and along it, as on other<br />

roads of royal travelling, Sultan Khans were built<br />

about twenty-five miles apart. This was one of them,<br />

and one of the best. It has given the village its name,<br />

but is now a ruin, though enough remains to show<br />

what a noble building it was in its time. It was<br />

about two hundred feet in length, built throughout<br />

of dressed stone, and contained apartments for the<br />

sultan, his harem, and retinue, and vaulted stalls for<br />

the camels of the royal caravan. You may see these<br />

stalls still, for each royal camel his vaulted stall.<br />

They open like a row of little chapels along each side<br />

of the great hall, whose vault exceeds forty feet in<br />

span, and part of which still remains. This fine old<br />

building has now become a quarr}^ for the mean village<br />

which has grown up round it.<br />

At the village khayi I heard of the traveller whose<br />

northward progress in a three-horse araha was made<br />

so impressive by his servants. He was a British<br />

consul, going as quickly and comfortably from the<br />

Mediterranean coast to Samstin as circumstances per-

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