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A PLEASANT KHAN 111
fear of rivalry or comparison, and yet made no
attempt at being an hotel ; it provided only shelter,
water, and fire. All who sought its hospitality
brought their own beds and bedding, and made their
own provision for food ; but on these terms it was a
resort for those who required comfort and cleanliness
of the native sort. Tokat has always been a place
with large commercial and official interests ; and many
well-to-do persons come to it upon their affairs and
require to stay a while. By generations of such
visitors has this khan been given its characteristics.
In an exhibition of the pleasant inns of all lands
could such a delio^htful exhibition ever be held—each
inn faithfully reproduced and displaying its daily life,
my Tokat khan would not rank last, and its scenes
would be among the most picturesque and diverting
of any.
As a solid old-established khan it made no pretentious
outward show. It was built of whitewashed
stone, and its floors were paved with the same
material. A servant, as I entered, was sprinkling
the outer paving with water on the score of coolness,
and took pleasure in making elaborate patterns with
his little jet. Being a large khan, the gallery and
rooms went round three sides of the spacious sunny
courtyard, which as yet was empty of vehicles.
The door of each room was numbered, and the
figures enclosed by a painted wreath of flowers. My
room was clean and dusted. The rug upon the
floor would have fetched a goodly price in Europe,
and the hand-printed hangings on the wall were excellent
examples of native art. A stove in blue tiles,
and a gilt-framed mirror, were other surprising appointments
of luxury.
A few minutes after reaching the khan I was seated
on the balcony railing, a thirsty man, drinking tea,
and watchino; other travellers arrive. Amono- them
figured well-mounted civilian horsemen accompanied
by armed servants, and also a few officers in khaki,
attended by orderlies. But the greater number of
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