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380 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

horseman in appearance, but his boihng energy made<br />

all things possible. Watching him it seemed that<br />

his country's interests could hardly have found a<br />

better official. When not answering telegrams and<br />

despatches and interviewing callers and radiating<br />

over some 50,000 square miles of territory he was<br />

winninof native efoodwill. This branch of his duties<br />

seemed to give him trouble, and in his efforts German<br />

efficiency did not appear so obvious.<br />

In many ways the Turk is the easiest man in<br />

the world to get on with. Treat him justly and<br />

courteously, avoid running foul of his religion, and<br />

remember that he has the traditions of a warlike<br />

race and counts himself a conqueror, and he will<br />

do almost anything for you. But browbeating and<br />

cast-iron official methods he does not accept mildly.<br />

He becomes mulishly obstinate, and has a long<br />

memory for scores that he sets aside for settlement.<br />

The effects of German treatment and Turkish resentment<br />

were visible enough at Baghche, Not a<br />

German official went out except accompanied by a<br />

Circassian kavass, and even his Excellency never<br />

stirred without the giant Ibrahim Chowshe dogging<br />

his<br />

footsteps.<br />

Handicapped by the arrogance and rigid official<br />

ways of his colleagues, his Excellency evidently found<br />

every artifice necessary, and never threw away an<br />

opportunity of winning favourable impressions. The<br />

first time I entered his cottage three or four young<br />

children were playing with new German toys ; the<br />

children were those of a local Turkish official, the<br />

toys gifts of the German Empire. One afternoon<br />

we went for a walk, and led by Ibrahim Chowshe<br />

climbed into a mountain glen, following a goattrack<br />

beside the stream. At a turn in the path<br />

appeared a little Turkish maid of six or seven, who<br />

began a pitiful wailing at the apparition of three<br />

strange men.<br />

"Korkahna" (do not fear), said the huge Circassian<br />

kindly, stooping down and patting her head. Then

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