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440 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

Adana outbreak, one of the worst massacres in the<br />

country. Few indeed of the Armenian portion of<br />

its inhabitants had escaped. These flimsy new shops<br />

with their somnolent Moslem shopkeepers and flyblown<br />

goods represented one of the changes produced<br />

by massacre—the dispossession of a race apt in the<br />

competition of trade by another more apt in the<br />

competition of killing.<br />

While I looked thus from my window a stringed<br />

instrument began to play, and with that I went out<br />

into the street to see and listen. In the green shade<br />

of a trellised vine the stools of the village cafe stood<br />

round a rough stone fountain, and there were seated<br />

Mustapha and Mehmet, village gossips, and tired<br />

soldiers, while an old blind minstrel played and sang.<br />

He sang one of those tuneless Turkish songs which<br />

are the very negation of music in Western ears.<br />

But his listeners were pleased with him and themselves,<br />

and drank coffee, and rolled and smoked<br />

cigarettes incessantly, and laughed and talked, and<br />

seemed to think that on this eastern slope of Amanus<br />

the world went very well indeed.

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