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CHAPTER XXXVII.
Morning in Beilan Pass—Mountain horsemen— Overlooking the Gulf
of Alexandretta—Alexander the Great at Beilan Pass— English
merchant ships at Alexandretta in the eighteenth century—Jacob's
Well— Scanderbeg—Alexander Drummond—Alexandretta as a German
port— Jonah's Pillars— Battlefield of Issus—The overland route
to India—A neglected British opportunity—The eastern end of the
Mediterranean and the future—Another British opportunity— On a
British steamer.
In fear of missing the steamer for Beirut at
Alexandretta—for I did not know with certainty
her day of sailing — I left Kirk Khan just after
dawn. A cool breeze was pouring down from
Amanus when I stepped out into the street. Above
the marshes floated a thin mist, but the plain lay
sunk in gloom except where light was reflected
dimly from expanses of water. In the east, however,
behind the low dull hills of Hammam, the dawn was
spreading rapidly, and already gave an edge of gold
to a thin slip or two of grey stratified cloud that
hung above the point of sun-rising. In the west
the ridges of Amanus high above me were growing
bright against a clear sky.
Though I had started thus early many others were
before me ; even the tired soldiers were going forward
already, true to the travelling custom of their country.
The steady beating of distant camel -bells sounded
along the road, from time to time came the quick
tripping jingle of donkey-bells ; there were peasants
on foot and peasants on asses— the country-folk were
not only astir but abroad upon their business. I
looked forward to being on the sea again, but at