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216 ACROSS ASIA MIXOR ON FOOT<br />

was Hodja Dagh, which stands beside Tuz Geul, the<br />

great Salt Lake. The twin peaks of Hassan Dagh,<br />

an extinct volcano, showed sixty miles away in the<br />

south-west, rising from the Axylon plain. And then<br />

came the long level wall of the Taurus, beginning in<br />

the farthest south-west somewhere above the Gulf<br />

of Adalia, and passing eastward as a pearly cloud<br />

which grew in whiteness and distinctness till in the<br />

south its features became visible. There it merged<br />

into the still nearer range of Bulgar Dagh, and then<br />

into Ala Dagh, whose white serrated peaks, seen foreshortened<br />

against a blue sky, were like the teeth of<br />

a saw. Farther to the east were various hisfh white<br />

peaks, and these, when we came to them, Ighsan<br />

dismissed as the mountains of Ajemistan, or Persia.<br />

With all these distant landmarks in sight it was<br />

possible to trace afar the route I hoped to follow.<br />

For a part of the way I aimed to travel down the<br />

wild little-known track which passes under the peaks<br />

of Ala Dagh for a hundred miles. Ighsan grew<br />

eloquent as he spoke of that long valley. He knew<br />

it well. There the guest-houses were always good,<br />

the water sweet, the yoghourt plentiful. While<br />

gazing on these distant mountains and recounting<br />

travellers' joys, he opened his shirt and bared his<br />

arms. I wondered what he was at, for his action<br />

was strangely vigorous ; he seemed to be preparing<br />

to fight, or for sudden and unexpected labour. But<br />

he only wished to show old scars on chest and arms<br />

—scars of his younger days recalled by the scenes he<br />

now looked upon, and which, it seemed, he had not<br />

beheld so well for man}^^ years. This slash coming<br />

down from forearm to hand he had received under<br />

Ala Dagh, these bullet-marks also. A stab had been<br />

got beside Hassan Dagh. Another cut at a village<br />

in the Bulgar Dagh, over there. He had seen much<br />

in his life ; he had learnt the names of these mountains<br />

with his blood and had never forgotten them.<br />

Animated by such recollections he spread out his<br />

full beard, extended his moustachios, straightened

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