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HOTEL DE LA GARE AT KONIA 283<br />

and made fertile, for it is all a question of water.<br />

The plain, called on some maps the Salt Desert, is<br />

really fertile for the larger portion of its area, and<br />

will grow anything with water. And water can be<br />

brought to it from the highland lakes, forty or fifty<br />

miles away—where is Beyshehr, for one, with a surface<br />

of 300 square miles— but the work involves<br />

considerable outlay. The scheme in progress— a<br />

beginning to show what might be done—was of<br />

course in German hands, with the Deutsche Bank<br />

as enterprising and hopeful provider of capital.<br />

On arriving at Konia station one finds the surroundings<br />

unexpectedly European, for the old city<br />

is some distance away, and buildings which have<br />

sprung up near the railway are in the European<br />

style. There is a large Hotel de la Gare in wellkept<br />

grounds, and towards the city runs a wide,<br />

straight, tree-lined road along which trams come and<br />

go. But these appearances are so much veneer. At<br />

the other end of the avenue is Konia, a Turkish city<br />

in every sense, mean and depressing though once a<br />

capita], and perhaps destined to be a capital again.<br />

At the Hotel de la Gare I found their charges<br />

adjustable to circumstances, seeking to ensure, if<br />

not a profit, at least the avoidance of loss on any<br />

individual guest. In this spirit the alarmed management<br />

informed me, after one experience of my morningappetite,<br />

that I had already consumed all the milk<br />

in the hotel, as well as several breakfasts at the one<br />

sitting, and at this rate must be charged double for<br />

meals. Li the end, however, we arrived at a friendly<br />

compromise, by which the charge for breakfast was<br />

doubled, but for other meals w^as to remain unchanged.<br />

Konia stands on the Great Plain, more than 3000<br />

feet above sea -level. Low hills rise a few miles<br />

away in the north and east, and the snow-covered<br />

Taurus appear in the south, but the city has no<br />

charm of situation. Summer is said to be fiercely hot,<br />

and the rainfall deficient ; winter, however, seldom<br />

brings deep snow and temperatures below zero sucj^v^**''* .f^,.

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