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THE ROAD TO ALEXANDRETTA 447<br />

thence go through Aleppo. It was an earlier scheme<br />

than the one now brought so near completion by<br />

German enterprise, prompted by a great ulterior purpose<br />

; for we had old traditions of trade by this route<br />

to maintain, and the enterprising commercial instincts<br />

which had created the trade in spite of all difficulties<br />

sought to maintain and increase it by a railway when<br />

caravan traffic became inadequate. How this scheme<br />

and others fell through, and how the Germans at<br />

last stepped in, make surely the strangest and most<br />

romantic story of any railway ever begun or proposed<br />

—the story of a railway that became part of a great<br />

national plot against the State which first projected<br />

it. Most fitly is it an Eastern railway, with Bagdad<br />

as one of its chief stations ; nor is its history yet<br />

complete.<br />

A very beautiful piece of country extends from<br />

Beilan to the sea - shore. The road winds over a<br />

breadth of undulating falling land, between fields<br />

and pines and oaks ; and as it descends yet lower,<br />

passes carob-trees and hedges of aloes. On this April<br />

afternoon I went among green grass and spring<br />

flowers in air that was wonderfully soft and balmy ;<br />

and behind me rose the five or six thousand feet of<br />

Amanus, rugged and steep to the sea, showing scrub<br />

and wood and rock. At the foot of the mountains<br />

came the plain, a mile or more in width, with datepalms<br />

here and there, and beyond it the Mediterranean,<br />

blue and unruffled, and sleeping in sunlight.<br />

Then the level road, long and straight and dusty,<br />

passed marshes and springs, and at last entered<br />

Alexandretta.<br />

On the way into<br />

the town one comes upon places<br />

and traditions connecting the district with an odd<br />

assortment of figures. Of the line springs which<br />

break out at the foot of the mountains and form<br />

marshes tradition calls one " Jacob's Well," and brings<br />

home the fact that this is part of the land of biblical<br />

history. At this well it is said Jacob watered his<br />

flocks, and in the confident way of tradition details

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