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—<br />

256 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

less : even<br />

the Turkish wife stood in the doorway<br />

to hear it. I was writing up my diary, so might<br />

have been supposed to hear little, but I heard and<br />

understood enough to learn that 1 was a person inexplicable<br />

from my man's point of view. The subject<br />

of his story was our last day at Urgub, the<br />

outstanding event of the day the fact that he had<br />

ridden and I had walked before him. His narrative<br />

lasted a quarter of an hour, during which time he<br />

never got far from the chief incident ; he came back<br />

to it again and again with added relish, it coloured<br />

his opinion of me to an extent I had never suspected,<br />

and seemed to have given him unwonted pleasure.<br />

At Enighil, as at nearly all other places where I<br />

had stayed, anticas—antiques—were brought for my<br />

opinion, though not necessarily for immediate sale, the<br />

native way being to get offers from various persons<br />

before letting an article go. The treasures generally<br />

ranged from old coins, and small, much-oxydised, bronze<br />

vessels and ornaments such as lamps and bracelets, to<br />

the flotsam and jetsam of unfamiliar European things.<br />

I think it was at this place that one brought out<br />

an old French miniature, the portrait of a lady,<br />

painted on copper, and still in good preservation.<br />

There were also old English and French watches<br />

that now had ceased to keep time—and also a brass<br />

candle - snuffer. Of bronze coins at least a hundred<br />

must have been in the room. They belonged to the<br />

old Greek cities and states of Asia Minor, whose small<br />

bronze money may be found in the hands of most<br />

peasants. Such coins are seldom of much value,<br />

and generally represent the unsaleable residue, for<br />

Armenian and Greek merchants have an eye to<br />

these things, and nearly every coin you see has been<br />

submitted to possible buyers many times before.<br />

From time to time, however, a real treasure may be<br />

obtained from the finder. I once saw a silver piece<br />

of Philip of Macedon, a splendid coin the size of<br />

a florin, which had been acquired from a peasant.<br />

But I also saw another excellent specimen of the

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