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CHAPTER III.
and its
Tipping at Chakallu khan—Goats one of the curses of mankind—
weird beggar—On the great plateau of Asia Minor— Kara Dagh
robbers—A Roman road—An ancient and modern wateringplace
— A fashionable khan at Khavsa — Abwence of women in
Turkish travelling—Ritual of coffee-making—Gorge of the "Flowing
Backwards" river—Flour mills—Difficulties with camels—A Greek
fisherman—I leave the Bagdad Road—Walnut groves, vineyards,
and burying-grounds at Marsovan.
When I looked out of my window at six the next
morning the road was filled with a raw autumnal fog.
A little later Achmet appeared, to see for himself
when he might hope to get away, for like all of his
calling he loved an early start. Already the khan
was empty. In my sleep I had heard vehicles
rumbling off, and the clatter and talking and jingling
of bells which announce the coming of dawn in a khan.
And now, like one left behind by his fellows, my
driver was ill at ease. It was eio^ht o'clock when the
boys carried my luggage to the araha, and only then
did Achmet bring his ponies from the stable, fearing
lest by standing in harness they might be chilled.
He lost no time now, and drew out of the yard even
before I had distributed tips.
After paying the khan-kee-per I looked round for
his satellites. There they all were, busy, cheerful in
anticipation, but all with the eye and expression of
body that tip-seekers the world over display at the
right moment. And these Ottomans had nothing to
learn from any of the fraternity in the matter of
tactical adroitness. With an air of all imaginable