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acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

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240 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

ourselves completely. I wished to get to the rock,<br />

an object in sight not three hundred yards away,<br />

yet for any progress towards it that we made we<br />

might have been caught in a maze. A passage would<br />

end in a door, or a flight of steps leading up to a<br />

dwelling, or descend into the hillside. Nor was there<br />

ever any certainty whether we were on solid ground<br />

or no. More than once I discovered, with the heavy<br />

uncomfortable feeling of serious trespass, that the<br />

whole party, horse and men, had somehow got upon<br />

a stranger's roof At length a woman saw our difficulty,<br />

and voluntarily put us on the right way, and<br />

came a little distance, and watched us till out of<br />

sight to make sure that we should not go wrong<br />

again. She was old, and I oft'ered her baksheesh for<br />

her kindly service ; but she declined the money<br />

pleasantly, having acted out of the goodness of her<br />

heart.<br />

Up a steep winding alley, past masonry that had<br />

the appearance of age, and a fragment of Roman<br />

inscription— as it seemed to be— built into a wall,<br />

we passed under an archway, and then came out<br />

upon an open space at the top of the hill. Men of<br />

the village had gathered here sitting on low stools,<br />

smoking and drinking cofiee in the sunlight of an<br />

afternoon that already had in it more than a touch<br />

of frost. Above them the rock rose like a tower,<br />

pierced with openings near the top, some of which<br />

were closely stuffed with straw and looked as if the<br />

instincts of underground dwellers rebelled against<br />

the fresh air of these upper chambers.<br />

The afternoon had an extraordinary quality of<br />

brilliancy which caused all distant objects to seem<br />

crystalline and much nearer than they really were.<br />

The sky was cloudless save in the north - east,<br />

where a few far -off pearly cirrus hung low above<br />

Topuz Dagh, the sunlight strong, and the dry<br />

rarefied air perfectly still. Amidst these conditions<br />

the massive yellow rock, splashed with contrasting<br />

light and shade on its irregular surface,

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