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— 244 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of retaining my quarters, and I made the utmost speed ill the operation. The officer did not hurry, he was by nature a sedentary, inactive person, and when he looked in at the door my precautious were well under way. He was confronted by a cheerful Christian who held pork in both hands who even had pork in his mouth ; and the room was filled with the smell and smoke arising from the same unholy meat burning in the pan. My rival turned sourly away, and I thought had been driven off; but in a little while the Mcî- keeper appeared, troubled in face, troubled also in manner. He came to his subject indirectly. There was another good room with a mat floor, adjoining mine, he began. It was small, but I was only one, whereas the pasha and his man, as I could see, were two. Although the new-comer was certainly not a pasha, he possessed sufficient importance to have his way with the khankeeper if he chose, so in order to avoid trouble I agreed to the change. Half an hour afterwards the officer and his servant seemed still dissatisfied with the condition of the room, for I noticed them industriously fanning the air with rugs. When next I glanced through the open door both were at prayer, and oblivious to everything else. A raw threatening morning followed for my next stage on the road. When leaving the town I turned aside into the ruined khan of Injesu, a caravanserai of old days, whose size indicated the immense trafiic which had passed this way at one time. Unlike other khans I had seen on the journey, this was a true example of an eastern caravanserai, a structure without rooms, merely a general place of safety and shelter for caravans and travellers during the night. It comprised no more than a spacious open quadrangle, surrounded on each side by a cloister of one - storied stone arches. The low enclosing outer walls, against which the cloisters stood, were also of stonework unpierced by windows. The open courtyard contained space for hundreds of camels, travel-
— AN ANCIENT CARAVANSERAI 245 lers and goods found shelter in the cloisters, and the massive containing walls, once fitted with heavygates, made the edifice a stronghold that would resist any raiders. There had been excellent reasons for erecting this sanctuary here^^^;^^ At Injesu the old westeriî/wad from Constantinople through Urgub and Nevshehr joined the road going between Caesarea and the Mediterranean. At this junction, one day's journey from Caesarea, many rich caravans came together for the night, and were within a day's ride of a district always notorious for its lawlessness. For at Injesu a track came in from the wild country south and east of Argaeus—in earlier centuries a land of semi - independent freebooters, till twenty years ago a nursery of brigands, and still a district of which it is said that a criminal who reaches Ferakdin is beyond pursuit. The people of this broken inaccessible district, living hard upon the flank of the chief highway between rich Csesarea and the outer world, ever levied marauders' toll along the road. It was against their bold operations that the strong khan at Injesu was built. What the need for it was, what previous affairs of battle and murder and frenzied merchants ravished of their goods, the costly nature of this free refuge still bears witness. As I walked in its broken cloisters it was still being used, and gave a faint hint of its earlier scenes. A party of gypsies had sheltered here for the night, and their gorgeous rugs—it is a peculiarity of gypsy caravans that they often possess wonderful rugs were thrown carelessly over a heap of articles in the arcade. Their camels, attended by a couple of men, knelt in the court, a fire was burning, and against the wall were other men still asleep, while shrill-voiced women and children prepared food and made ready for the day's journey. The awkward gait, the furtive eyes, the sense of being completely at home wherever the camp—such gypsy characteristics were evident in a glance. The rain which had begun to fall while I was in
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! 00 ' ' . ^ %ss Asia Minof P-^"^"*
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Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORO
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Digitized by the Internet Archive i
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'' " ' Across Asia Minor on t(Jom W
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; PREFACE. The journey described in
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PREFACE vii likely enemy agent. And
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— — 1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A Bl
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— — CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XIII. A
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— A CONTENTS xiii CHAPTEE XXVI. T
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ILLUSTRATIONS. WESTERN PRECIPICES,
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ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT. CHAPTER
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— — THE AUSTRIAN CAPTAIN'S VIEW
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SCENES OF CENTURIES AGO 5 the Ten T
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SEABOARD OF ASIA MINOR 7 you never
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m SAMStJN ROADS 9 had seen upon it
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; SAMStJN 11 most valuable tobacco
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OUTBREAK OF CHOLERA 13 Baffra and S
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CHANGED PLANS 15 It had been my int
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AN UNEXPECTED COMPANION 17 bumping
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1^^ |Sjife^ ML. PIt i ^^û£i.- - ^
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20 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT althou
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22 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT welcom
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24 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT For br
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A 26 CHAPTER III. and its Tipping a
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; 28 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The
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— A WEIRD BEGGAR 29 As we rose ou
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— KHAVSA 31 fitted stones, one su
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ABSENCE OF WOMEN 33 white shawls as
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DIFFICULTIES WITH CAMELS 35 the nor
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VINEYAEDS AND WALNUT GROVES 37 as m
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vStreet in Marsovan. In the Mission
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— 40 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT st
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; 42 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT door
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—; 44 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT p
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— 46 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT th
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48 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of cre
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50 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hardly
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52 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT brough
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54 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT duties
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— 56 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a
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58 CHAPTER VI. Marsovan Mission Hos
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; 60 ACROSS ASIA MINOK ON FOOT buil
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; 62 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT doct
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— 64 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT la
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—! 65 CHAPTER VII. On Marsovan pl
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— BULGARIAN MOHADJIS 67 seemed to
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; A SINGULAR RAVINE 69 Europeans wh
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PICTUEESQUE AJVIASIA 71 width not f
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>
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! 74 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Had
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— 76 CHAPTER VIII. Arrested in Am
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" 78 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT he f
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; 80 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT him
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- 82 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thes
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84 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT So I f
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86 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT people
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LAND OF THE AMAZONS 87 and white go
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5
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90 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT contai
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! 92 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Mong
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94 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT were a
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96 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT evenin
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—; 98 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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100 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT thoug
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102 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for i
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104 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to As
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106 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT About
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108 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT an ey
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110 CHAPTER XL Tokat—Dagger-weari
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112 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT trave
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114 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT whole
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116 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of Ar
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—; ACHMET AND THE SENTRY 117 last
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COMMERCIAL KHANS OF TOKAT 119 Here
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AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 121 It colours e
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; ON THE SOUTHWARD ROAD 123 ment of
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TOBACCO SMUGGLING 125 contrabandist
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A DANGEROUS PATHWAY 127 his judgmen
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MUSICAL BULLOCK-CARTS 129 beauty. N
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— 131 CHAPTER XIII. An unexpected
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KUMOURS OF MASSACRE 133 shutting of
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TURKISH TROOPS ON CHAMLI BEL 135 na
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PROMPT REPRESSIVE MEASURES 137 in h
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BELIEF IN THE EVIL EYE 139 these pe
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THE CORVEE IN OPERATION 141 corvee,
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143 CHAPTER XIV. Entering Sivas—A
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SIVAS—ARMENIAN MIGRATION 145 Turk
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1 H| . ' JF^ J ;^ ^^^^-. ^5iAi Ruin
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148 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT enoug
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; 150 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT her
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152 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT could
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: 154 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT has
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156 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the s
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158 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to be
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— 160 CHAPTER XV. Selecting anoth
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162 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and t
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164 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ties
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166 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a sen
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168 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT salut
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170 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and s
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172 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of ti
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— 174 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT f
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176 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT mitte
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: 178 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Asi
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my soul!— cried Mehmet, jumping 1
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— — I 182 CHAPTEK XVII. In Tala
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184 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT over
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; ALI DAGH AND ARGAEUS 185 Cross a
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AN ARMENIAN MONASTERY 187 Rain was
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A Greek ot Talas. «f^ •• ^^t
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I'JO ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT was
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192 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT stand
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SEEING KAISARIYEH 193 cure in the w
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TURKISH MILITARY OFFICERS 195 than
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THE CASTLE AND ITS DUNGEONS 197 the
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THE SITE OF MAXACA 199 to the site
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felt, BUYING IN THE BAZAARS 201 was
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A JEW-HATEE 203 the same hidden inf
Page 261 and 262: ; INDISPENSABLE LUGGAGE 205 square,
Page 263 and 264: ; TIRED TRAVELLERS 207 The hours st
Page 265 and 266: A BARBER'S SHOP RECEIVES US 209 the
Page 267 and 268: THE DRUMMER OF INJESU 211 A cup of
Page 269 and 270: — 213 CHAPTER XX. I leave lajesii
Page 271 and 272: A MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT 215 I could
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Page 277 and 278: INTEODUCTION TO CAVE LIFE 219 arche
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Page 281 and 282: DOOR OF A STRONGHOLD 223 stone had
Page 283 and 284: A PLEASANT MORNING 225 for I had he
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Page 310 and 311: 242 CHAPTER XXII. Return to Injesu
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Page 337 and 338: ; AT YELATIN KHAN' 267 as wild and
Page 339 and 340: FUNDUKLI KHAN 269 ingly broken wood
Page 341 and 342: THE BAGDAD RAILWAY 271 mere goat-tr
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Page 346 and 347: 274 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Engli
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Page 351 and 352: THE WIXE-SHOP AT TOSAN ALI 277 skil
Page 353 and 354: — 279 CHAPTER XXV. Ulu Kishla—
Page 355 and 356: — "GERMAN CASTLES" 281 long stops
Page 357 and 358: HOTEL DE LA GARE AT KONIA 283 and m
Page 359 and 360: ! EETURN TO ULU KISHLA 285 than oth
Page 361 and 362: 287 CHAPTER XXVI. Turkish officers
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INDIGNANT TURKISH OFFICERS 289 how
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TURKISH OFFICERS AND MEN 291 which
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LOULON CASTLE 293 Gates, fifty mile
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"SPOKTMEN" ARRIVE 295 with beard tu
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A DROLL TURKISH CARTER 297 While th
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; A CIRCASSIAN DICK TURPIN 299 In t
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A SINGING TURKISH BAKER 301 finds a
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ARKIVE AT DUBEKJI KHAN 303 ment cur
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Turks at Duulnji is./', :3i. Shephe
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306 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and n
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308 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT had s
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— ; 310 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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312 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT many
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314 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT old g
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— 316 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT c
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A 318 CHAPTER XXVIII. Return to the
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; THE GATE OF HOLY WAR 319 short st
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— A SACRED TREE 321 flutter of ra
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; A QUARKEL WITH KNIVES 323 gesticu
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IN THE MYRTLE SCRUB 325 We left thi
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a CONSCRIPTS ON THE ROAD 327 by ole
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RAIN-SQUALLS AND MUD 329 him, and w
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— 331 CHAPTER XXIX. An old Tarsus
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ST PAUL'S AMERICAN COLLEGE 333 voic
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a OLD TAKSUS—THE CYDNtJS 335 rich
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OLD WAYS OF TRAVELLING 337 terranea
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MERSINA 339 but the tall Swiss lady
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— THE CILICIAN PLAIN 341 land and
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s?CW Cotton Caits, CilicKm l^la '"'
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344 CHAPTER XXX. Adana— On a flat
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ON A FLAT EOOF 345 of Ala Dagh and
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ARMENIANS OF CILICIA 347 benefit th
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MAJOR DOUGHTY-WYLIE 349 and coupled
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THE GREAT ADANA MASSACRE 351 ported
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— KILLING AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 353
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— I PAY OFF IGHSAN 355 well why t
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BEITISH CONSUL GOES WITH ME 357 As
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The Consul, Ibrahim, and Mustaph: H
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" — 360 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 362 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT Aft
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; 364 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT lay
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aCKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT îcism ov
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368 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the f
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370 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hours
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372 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for m
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374 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a hot
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376 CHAPTER XXXII. Still at Baghche
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— 378 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT o
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380 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT horse
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— 382 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT t
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384 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT now w
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386 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to de
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388 CHAPTER XXXIII. Marash—Fanati
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390 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Armen
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392 ACROSS ASTA MINOR ON FOOT Ameri
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394 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT defia
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ACCIDEXT TO MUSTAPHA 395 plain, and
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GorPL- on load to Zt-itun.
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398 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT siUTO
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— ZEITCN town and scenes 399 bung
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"^*y^. A view in Zeitim. "The Brido
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402 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT venti
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— 404 CHAPTER XXXIV. Marash eastw
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406 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of th
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— 408 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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Ff:EDING CAMELS 409 wonld do credit
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; SYRIAN SCENES 411 the zaptiehs so
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A QUAKREL AT THE KHAN 413 after rea
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; EOAD INTO ALEPPO 415 like that of
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INDIVIDUALITY OF ALEPPO 417 stone-b
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A \ iew ot Alt'ppo Mehmet, the'Zapt
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—; 420 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 422 ACROSS ASIA MINOE ON FOOT wit
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; 424 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tur
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— — 426 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FO
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: 428 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Car
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430 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT perma
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— 432 CHAPTER XXXYI. A strange Ar
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434 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT while
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436 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tachi
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A LONG-REMEMBERED PICTURE 437 As th
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VILLAGE OF KIRK KHAN 439 to the poi
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441 CHAPTER XXXVII. Morning in Beil
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; BEILAN PASS AND VILLAGE 443 the d
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— SCENES FAMOUS IN HISTORY 445 Ci
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THE ROAD TO ALEXANDRETTA 447 thence
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TOWN OF ALEXANDRETTA 449 Nor was th
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— ALEXANDER DRUMMOND 451 such dem
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ALEXANDRETTA AS A GERMAN PORT 453 t
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BATTLEFIELD OF ISSUS 455 standstill
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A BRITISH OPPORTUNITY 457 highway r
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— ON A BRITISH STEAMER 459 other
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