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THE DRUMMER OF INJESU 211<br />

A cup of tea placed before him he left uii tasted ; a<br />

plate of stew, which he knew contained nothing a<br />

Moslem might not eat, for he had seen it made,<br />

he treated in the same way. He would not even<br />

smoke a cigarette, and my worst forebodings seemed<br />

justified.<br />

Shaving went on without interruption for nearly<br />

two hours, then the barber turned out all spectators<br />

and bolted the door. Presently he sent his boy<br />

outside, who came back with a bowl of rice pilaf.<br />

With bread, a piece of j^^^derma, and the basin<br />

of pilaf, followed by coffee, the two and Ighsan,<br />

who by this time had recovered somewhat, made a<br />

great meal. My man regained strength while he<br />

ate, and with it his appetite increased so much that<br />

when the native food was finished he turned to the<br />

stew and made an end of that also. With a sigh of<br />

contentment he then dragged himself to a corner, and<br />

wrapping his hairy cloak about him immediately fell<br />

asleep.<br />

We slept four in this small tightly-closed room,<br />

yet for my part I never slept better in my life, nor<br />

felt more fresh on getting up. The door was open<br />

when I awoke. Outside I could see the barber washing<br />

himself at a dribble from a tin with a hole in it,<br />

held up by the boy, for a Moslem always washes in<br />

running water. Washing over, he fell to business at<br />

was light.<br />

once, for customers came in as soon as it<br />

On going into the street I found it filled with<br />

sleepy, dishevelled soldiers in khaki, standing about<br />

waiting for food. They said they had come from the<br />

south, and were marching to Sivas. While I looked<br />

at them, and thought how difficult they found the<br />

wearing of a European uniform and puttees, the sound<br />

of drums was heard, and a drummer appeared, a fine<br />

resplendent figure in scarlet and blue and gold, with<br />

two small drums, no larger than good-sized pudding<br />

basins, attached to his belt. He advanced slowly,<br />

stopping now and then, and facing in turn towards<br />

north, east, south, and west. At each halt he gave

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