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422 ACROSS ASIA MINOE ON FOOT<br />

with a large open courtyard in its midst, surrounded<br />

by a cloister-like arcade two stories in height. Above<br />

the entrance the building perhaps rises to three stories<br />

and shows a facade so well suited to its purpose,<br />

so excellent in workmanship and restrained use of<br />

ornament, as to compare well with any building<br />

of its class in the world. Standing in Europe it<br />

would have been made familiar by illustration and<br />

held up as an admirable example of ancient art<br />

standing in Aleppo it is unknown to the outer world<br />

and unappreciated.<br />

The yard is stacked with merchandise in small bales<br />

and bundles and sacks, for much of it has come or is<br />

to go by caravan, with Bagdad and even Persia as<br />

places of departure or destination. Men in gay-coloured<br />

garments flit about in sunlight and shadow. Under<br />

shady walls camels and asses are kneeling and standing,<br />

or are being loaded or unloaded. In the arcades<br />

and the rooms behind them goods are being unpacked<br />

and stored or made up into bales again. Under one<br />

of the arches perhaps you come upon some curious<br />

process of trade in full swing : it may be the cleaning<br />

of hair or wool, or the making of woollen felt.<br />

The cleaning of wool or hair seems to have something<br />

of conjuring about it, so immediate are the<br />

results and so unexpected compared with the rude<br />

implement used.<br />

A man seated cross-legged on the stone paving<br />

is the unlikely-looking conjurer. He is small, thin,<br />

dirty, dark, and unmistakably unhealthy, but his<br />

movements of hand are those of a master in his calling.<br />

His instrument is a heavy wooden bow, about<br />

four feet in length, in form something like a violin<br />

bow, but with the back nearly two feet from several<br />

stout catgut strings ; a wooden horn at each end of<br />

the bow projects six inches below the strings. On<br />

the floor he places a small heap of goat's hair,<br />

clotted into lumps by dirt and mud, above it<br />

places his bow, its two horns resting on the paving,<br />

its back in air, its strings parallel to the ground

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