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!<br />

EETURN TO ULU KISHLA 285<br />

than others, but wherever it is least, you find that<br />

Greeks or Armenians form a large proportion of the<br />

inhabitants.<br />

Turkish Moslems still have a strong sentimental<br />

regard for Konia, as being closely connected with the<br />

earlier history of Osmanli conquest and the rising<br />

tide of Osmanli dominion. One of the Turkish Sultan's<br />

titles of honour is " Grand Chelibi of Konia."<br />

The city may, indeed, become an Osmanli capital<br />

again, for Moslem thoughts turn to it as a place<br />

suitable for the purpose, whenever Constantinople<br />

seems to be in danger. It is remote and inaccessible<br />

from the sea, that highway of infidel influence<br />

and power ; at Konia they think they may find peace<br />

and relief from European pressure, and be able to<br />

live and govern in their own stagnant fashion. But<br />

what a change such a transfer will be for those<br />

accustomed<br />

to caicques upon the Bosphorus on moonlit<br />

summer nights, to Bosphorus palaces, to houses at<br />

delicious summer islands in the Sea of Marmora<br />

For them the removal to Konia will be a going<br />

forth into friMitful and almost unthinkable wilds.<br />

Many of them, one supposes, will prefer to stand<br />

by their pleasant places in Constantinople, whatever<br />

rulers that city may be fated to see.<br />

After a week spent in Konia I took train for Ulu<br />

Kishla again, carrying with me fresh<br />

stores, and comfortable<br />

in the knowledge that if snowed up anywhere<br />

I should be well provisioned. A snowstorm came on<br />

at Karaman, and increased to a violent blizzard by<br />

the time Eregli was reached. The thirty miles of<br />

steady ascent thence to Ulu Kishla took four hours,<br />

in spite of two powerful engines, and more than once<br />

the train was almost brought to a standstill by snowdrifts.<br />

But at dark, and long overdue, we at last<br />

drew into the terminus, amid a whirling of powdery<br />

snow so fine and close that station buildings and<br />

lamps were invisible from the carriage. Ighsan was<br />

on the platform, and falling now into his earlier<br />

manner, kissed hands and cried for pleasure, though

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