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166 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

a sensitive imagination. Tliis changed way of travelling<br />

pleased my driver immensely. Whenever I<br />

mounted the araba he would whip his horses to a<br />

sharp trot or canter for a half mile, and then at<br />

a word stop for me to get out.<br />

I felt certain, however, that weak-eyed Mehmet had<br />

not penetrated my motive, for the flocks were not<br />

always easy to see. But disillusionment presently<br />

followed, and in the way it came took me unawares.<br />

Walking before the araba I heard Mehmet cough<br />

out: '' Koj^ek"— a dog. I could see no flock, so<br />

believed he was announcing the bogie man, and<br />

wondered how self-respect required me to deal with<br />

this display of insolence. Then in the same warning<br />

voice, as if doing no more than his duty, he<br />

exclaimed '' Ikki"—two. By this time I felt sure we<br />

had come to a crisis, and though respecting his wit,<br />

meant to teach him a lesson. But he had truth on<br />

his side right enough, and pointed out two immense<br />

yellow creatures lying near the road some fifty yards<br />

ahead. Thereafter I made no more pretence, nor<br />

did he ; and his alertness was such that for the rest<br />

of the day he was ever discovering dogs and advising<br />

me to ride.<br />

In following the back of this high-standing plateau<br />

—called the Khanzir Dagh by some, and Terja Dagh<br />

by others—the road generally went in shallow valleys.<br />

It would wind along such a depression for hours and<br />

then cross a low col and enter another hollow. Its<br />

views also were always narrow and enclosed. There<br />

was nothing to make you suspect that by leaving the<br />

road, and going a few miles eastward or westward,<br />

you would find yourself overlooking lower country<br />

from a height of several thousand feet. Though the<br />

western watershed of the Euphrates, it had little to<br />

show for the dignity. It was a region scantily<br />

peopled and barren, covered with coarse sun-dried<br />

grass, but here a' there in hollows were patches of<br />

plough, and oats, cuid winter wheat.<br />

This dreary land was enlivened sometimes by

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