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2 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

on foot ; through uo fault of my own I had started<br />

late, and now winter seemed to be upon me.<br />

Presently the captain joined me in my place of<br />

shelter. He was a veteran in the Black Sea trade,<br />

whose opinion as to the weather likely to follow<br />

would be worth having. But I would not ask him<br />

for it, he being a genial old man, likely to say the<br />

thing acceptable to his passenger ; so I left him unprompted<br />

and hoped to hear his honest views. He<br />

began by turning up the collar of his uniform overcoat,<br />

and settling it about his head. Then he glanced<br />

around, and his eyes rested professionally on a big<br />

white Turkish steamer — in lighter trim now than<br />

when she carried bananas between Jamaica and Avonmouth—that<br />

had hung close astern of us all day.<br />

As she rose to the steep-sided surges she showed<br />

twenty feet of keel ; as she plunged it was in a<br />

smother of spray that went over her funnels.<br />

"The winter of the Black Sea," said the captain,<br />

while he looked— "it is terrible."<br />

"Winter!" I cried. "Do you call this winter?<br />

Why, three days ago it was scorching summer in<br />

Constantinople. There's a whole hot autumn to<br />

come," I declared vigorously. The captain shook<br />

his<br />

head slowly.<br />

" There is now no more of summer or of autumn ;<br />

it is the winter," he said with conviction. And then<br />

he continued cheerfully :<br />

" But I care nothing. In<br />

one other year I sail no more on any sea, and live<br />

alwa3's in the beautiful city Trieste." His interest<br />

next turned to myself, as the only English passenger<br />

on board.<br />

" You go to Trebizond," he inquired, " for the new<br />

harbour that the English make ? " I said that<br />

Samstin was my destination.<br />

" Ah ! I know. They make the new harbour of<br />

Samsi\n too. They make the harbours, then they<br />

say: 'It is mine!' like the gold-fields of South<br />

Africa." He illustrated his meaning more completely<br />

by a forcible two-handed grab.

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