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4 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

were vague and fearful, like those held of it by oldtime<br />

Greeks.<br />

But for one who likes to connect scene with event<br />

who in spirit can get himself into the past ; who<br />

delights in the sun and wind and open sky upon<br />

unknown roads of adventure, this ancient Eastern<br />

land holds pleasure beyond most.<br />

Consider for a moment its seaboard alone, and<br />

what comes to the eye and imagination in passing.<br />

At Beirut you are upon the coast of Phoenicia, and<br />

have in view the site of Sidon, and look southward<br />

to the hills of Palestine. At Trebizond you may<br />

count yourself not only in Meshech, but also on the<br />

coast of Colchis, with its legends of Argonauts, and<br />

Golden Fleece, and the witcheries of Medea. And<br />

between these two extremities of coast are enchanting<br />

islands and mainland, and narrow waters that<br />

comprise much of the ancient Greek world ; that hold<br />

the scenes of Homer and holy Paul ; that saw the<br />

vast and gorgeous Byzantine pageant ; saw, too, the<br />

rise and culmination of Ottoman power, and are seeing<br />

now its closing struggles. Consider, also, that<br />

during twenty-five centuries every great empire of the<br />

world, from the Persian to the British, has appeared<br />

on this coast in war ; and that of great conquerors<br />

and soldiers it has seen nearly all.<br />

Little wonder there is scarce a mile of shore that<br />

has not looked upon some event chronicled in immortal<br />

story—from the legendary combats of Troy<br />

to yesterday's authentic Landing on the Beaches of<br />

Gallipoli. True, many of these old sites are not easy<br />

to identify as you go. You stumble upon them as it<br />

were ; and sometimes they are passed unrecognised,<br />

for Turkish place-names give little clue as a rule ; but<br />

good fortune in this respect generally attends the<br />

traveller. For example, you may go ashore at Ordu,<br />

a small town on the Black Sea, not far from Trebizond,<br />

and by the accident of meeting with a communicative<br />

Greek are shown the remains of a little ancient port.<br />

It is a port like many others on the coast ; but here

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