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THE BAZAARS 421<br />

embroidery, and lace and garments of white and scarlet<br />

and blue and brown and green and orange, are the<br />

daily style of these people, and the colours are always<br />

pleasing and never crude. The bazaars are in gloom<br />

except where bars of sunlight enter from small windows,<br />

and these white shafts strike through a blue<br />

haze of smoke which fills the vault. The bazaar smell<br />

is a compound of tobacco and spice, new carpets and<br />

merchandise, animals, human beings, fruit, vegetables<br />

—of everything which moves, of everything which<br />

can be bought or sold or used. To the Aleppo boil<br />

and Aleppo look, as peculiar to the city, you may add<br />

the Aleppo smell.<br />

Everything of the East, and almost everything of the<br />

West, may be found in these packed bazaars. Brass<br />

and silver work from India are here ; Chinese ivories<br />

and porcelain ; silks and prints, carpets and rugs from<br />

every cotton -printing and carpet -weaving district<br />

between China and the Bosphorus. The peculiar<br />

linens and embroideries of near-by Marash are seen,<br />

so also Japanese lacquered bowls, African beadwork,<br />

French photographic films, and American sewing<br />

- machines. Do you want Mauser or Colt or<br />

Browning automatic pistols, here they are of every<br />

calibre and price. For Manchester goods you turn to<br />

the right, for Sheffield ware to the left ; for goods of<br />

different sorts have each their own part of the bazaar.<br />

A shop outwardly may be little more than a stall, but<br />

go inside, show a wish to buy, and you find the stall<br />

extending into dim caverns of its own behind, all<br />

packed with goods : the holder of one such outwardly<br />

modest stall blandly told me that his stock was worth<br />

twenty thousand pounds English.<br />

Interest of another sort belongs to the great commercial<br />

khans representing the warehouses and wholesale<br />

trade, where the caravans arrive and depart, by<br />

which, till now, merchandise from all parts of the<br />

world reached and left Aleppo—for the distributing<br />

trade also is a great one.<br />

The typical Jchan of this kind is a stone building

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