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142 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

two-storied, and white and large, constructed somewhat<br />

in the manner of nave and aisles with clerestory.<br />

Camels knelt before the door. The willows,<br />

though few and straight of growth, were certainly<br />

willows in an otherwise treeless country. At a little<br />

distance, carrying broad lights upon its surface, was<br />

the Kizil Irmak, here four hundred miles from its<br />

mouth, and still a considerable river. Brown hills<br />

enclosed the scene ; the wheels of distant bullock<br />

carts were crying in the valley ; over all was the<br />

peace of evening.<br />

When they led me to a lower room I protested ;<br />

I wanted one on the upper floor, somewhere in the<br />

clerestory.<br />

" There is no such room," said the Ma?i-keeper.<br />

And then taking me by the hand he led me to a<br />

door just beyond the entrance, and tragically throwing<br />

it open bade me look. I looked, and saw nothing<br />

but a void, like the interior of a great barn. The<br />

building had never been completed, and was merely<br />

a pretentious shell. It was a Turkish, or more correctly<br />

an Armenian, speculation that had been misjudged<br />

and come to nothing. To it, as to a pleasant<br />

place of comfortable rooms, and streams and willows<br />

and hills, were to have come many holiday-makers<br />

from Sivas. But their tastes had not been rightly<br />

judged, and they stayed away ; and a gloomy khankeeper<br />

even saw travellers drive past the khan, preferring<br />

to reach Sivas rather than stay here.<br />

And yet the next day I thought another khankeeper<br />

might have done much better. For this one<br />

had deceived me overnight, and to make sure of one<br />

guest at least had certainly doubled the distance to<br />

Sivas. And on top of that he had sought to treble<br />

his charges.

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