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ON THE ROAD TO BAGHCHE 373<br />

tunity to go one better than the people of Hamidieh.<br />

A number of Armenians were on their way to Adana,<br />

among them many pastors of the Armenian Protestant<br />

Church attending a convention in that town. Including<br />

men, women, and children, they exceeded<br />

two hundred in all, and, being so numerous, their<br />

Osmanieh friends housed them for the night in the<br />

local church. Early the next morning the Moslems<br />

set out to make sure of this party. An Armenian<br />

who had got wind of the plot ran to warn his compatriots,<br />

but a rifle-shot dropped him in the street<br />

before he had gone far, and the mob arrived while<br />

the Armenians were preparing breakfast. The few<br />

who endeavoured to leave the building were shot or<br />

knocked on the head ; the others barricaded the doors,<br />

and sat down, their backs to the outer walls, to await<br />

the end. The mob fired the building, and all within<br />

perished ; but they left against the fire-scorched walls<br />

the sharp silhouette of their seated figures, even of<br />

a woman with a child in arms, for men to see and<br />

wonder at lono^ afterwards.<br />

From Osmanieh to Baghche was another long stage,<br />

but one altogether pleasant ; for during a great part<br />

of the way the road went up the valley of the Baghche<br />

river, climbing steadily among broken, wooded mountains<br />

whose summits carried snow. Like the Cilician<br />

defile through the Taurus, this pass traversed what<br />

had been a border-land and the scene of much fighting<br />

between Arab and Christian. One castle especially<br />

conveyed the very spirit of wild days. It showed<br />

no signs of ruin, and was built on a mass of grey rock<br />

rising from waving woods which spread around it for<br />

miles. Report said that it had been the stronghold<br />

of a dere-hey, or valley-lord, within the last seventy<br />

years. For some little distance hereabouts we<br />

travelled on a Roman way, still in better general<br />

condition and with a much better surface than any<br />

other portion of the road to Baghche.<br />

It was nearly eight o'clock before we reached the<br />

khan at Baghche, another that had been turned into

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