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412 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

citadel of a fortress, for it was only a hundred yards<br />

across and half as much in height, and here the<br />

Byzantine Emperor, Romanus III., marching against<br />

Aleppo to emulate the conquests of his betters, lost<br />

the greater part of his army in battle with the Arab<br />

Emirs. It showed now no trace of ruins except a<br />

few bricks, but had been a place of great importance<br />

in the old wars.<br />

And next appeared, in a couple of hours, evidence of<br />

the new order of things coming upon ancient Aleppo<br />

—a long raw level bank stretching from west to east<br />

across the wheat. It was the Bagdad Railway coming<br />

down from Baghche tunnel to link with the<br />

Syrian railways at Aleppo, intended to bring at last<br />

the hosts of the German Empire to the Egyptian<br />

frontier and the Persian Gulf.<br />

Gaferuntun BJian^ reached at evening, stood lonely<br />

by the wayside, set amongst tall wheat which brushed<br />

its walls. It had occupants of various races for the<br />

night, including several Armenians, between whom,<br />

soon after I fell asleep, a furious quarrel arose in the<br />

room adjoining mine. The quarrel grew more and<br />

more shrill, so I kicked at the door and shouted for<br />

silence, but though the noise ceased a little, it soon<br />

broke out again and now went to a pitch still more<br />

acute. Men seemed to be tumbling about in furious<br />

struggle ; one would have said it could not go on<br />

long like this without bloodshed. The voices also<br />

told of passions aroused which would stop at nothing.<br />

And then Mustapha came to my door asking to sleep<br />

in my room, as he was in fear that some one would<br />

be killed. Being an Adana Moslem, he remembered<br />

the judicial proceedings there after the massacre, and<br />

was anxious to have a sufficient witness that he had<br />

not been engaged in this affair ;<br />

perhaps, too, as an<br />

Adana Moslem suspicion might have fallen unduly<br />

upon him. I asked who they were who quarrelled,<br />

and he said Armenians, which seemed to make his<br />

plea a good one, and I let him lie in my room. The<br />

struggling and shrieking went on for some time, and

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