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;<br />

32 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

there were said to be Greek inscriptions built into<br />

the walls of the baths.<br />

The hhan to which Achmet took me as the one, lie<br />

liked best was large and rambling and old. It had<br />

two floors of interior balconies supported by wooden<br />

posts, and would have been picturesque in any other<br />

land, but by no goodwill of imagination could be<br />

called picturesque in its present condition here. It<br />

was flimsy and rickety and dilapidated. There were<br />

broken boards and windows plaster was falling from<br />

;<br />

walls ; holes were patched by pieces of paraflin-tins<br />

and the quadrangle itself, with its horses and dogs<br />

and fowls, had the appearance of a farmyard. Yet<br />

as khans went the building was passably clean, and<br />

a good many visitors found it well enough to their<br />

liking. Through half-open doors on the balcony I<br />

saw into rooms littered with bedding, and cooking<br />

utensils, and food, and articles of dress, and heard<br />

the voices of women and children. Evidently families<br />

in search of health thought nothing of herding together<br />

three or four or Ave in a room while taking<br />

the baths.<br />

Soon after getting in I found the jar in my room<br />

empty, and therefore called loudly from the balcony<br />

for water, as a thing strangely overlooked in a lcha7i<br />

of such fashion and importance. No one was in sight<br />

below, and my shouting, if heard, passed unheeded.<br />

So it became necessary to wait upon myself; but as<br />

I went, earthenware jar in hand, a voice beside me<br />

said, " Here is water," and a female arm slid round<br />

a nearly-closed door and placed a tin vessel outside.<br />

The door was shut when I returned the tin, and<br />

remained so whenever I passed afterwards, and 1<br />

never saw the person who had shown kindness to a<br />

stranger and foreigner.<br />

But water was still my need, and not wishing to<br />

shout again, I set out once more with the jar. This<br />

time I came upon three well-dressed women in a dark<br />

corner of the balcony, who fluttered off" like startled<br />

doves at my approach, and covered their heads with

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