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322 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

range of grey buildings<br />

enclosing an open courtyard<br />

entered by a gate. Behind the khan the country<br />

seemed to be broken into gentle undulations falling<br />

towards the sea ; but in reality the eye rested upon<br />

a series of flattish ridges between abrupt gorges, in<br />

one of which flowed the river ; and because these<br />

ridges were covered with close green scrub the general<br />

surface appeared to be scarcely broken. Upon a knoll<br />

across the road was the last cluster of pine-trees,<br />

for here was the edge of the pine country, and<br />

towards the sea the vegetation changed, A pleasant<br />

khan in pleasant country it was, only that the khankeeper<br />

happened to be a Greek.<br />

Doubtless he made his house profitable. The long<br />

range of clean little bedrooms above the stables,<br />

each room opening to the balcony, told of much<br />

business. The cook-shop, too, was good, and many<br />

guests were already buying food. But for all this<br />

excellence and visible prosperity the Man -keeper<br />

evidently led a troubled existence, as one must<br />

whose charges are liable to challenge on points<br />

of custom. I had not arrived ten minutes before<br />

a violent quarrel broke out in the yard below, and<br />

jumped at once to a note of vehemence in many<br />

voices which told of something beyond the common.<br />

There was in the sound, too, that indefinable urgency<br />

which is soon recognised as portending the use of<br />

knife or revolver. I went out on the balcony and<br />

saw before an open stable a struggling group—bright<br />

colours, writhing bodies, men running, and the white<br />

flash of steel. The sides were the khan, and guests<br />

of the lower sort—the khan represented by servants,<br />

and the guests by three Moslem donkey-drivers.<br />

Two of these had already drawn knives, but now<br />

were being well held. It was touch and go, however,<br />

whether the third enraged guest would not<br />

go to the knife at any moment, and at the present<br />

stage attempts were being made to secure him, yet<br />

with an obvious degree of forbearance.<br />

Meanwhile the ^^a?i-keeper, a well-meaning Greek,

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