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258 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

outside to see the weather the snow was melting.<br />

The horse was loaded before the gfuest-house door, the<br />

children were tipped, payment for our night's lodging<br />

having been declined, and then our host brought us a<br />

couple of miles on the road. Better weather promised<br />

before he left. The mountains were still hidden by<br />

masses of compact, low-lying clouds, but these were<br />

slowl}'- revolving and tumbling, breaking up, and piling<br />

together again. Between them now and again appeared<br />

rifts and pockets of blue sky filled with sunlight. By<br />

the time Kavluk Tepe was reached mountain-peaks<br />

emerged grandly on our left—so lofty, and yet so close<br />

at hand, that suddenly discovered above a world of contorted<br />

cloud they seemed strangely o^/erhead. Then a<br />

stab of sunshine fell on a snow -streaked brown hillside<br />

across the valley, and quickly cover^the whole range ;<br />

and with that a fine day began^^v^<br />

A few houses of Kavluk Te^ stood near the road,<br />

and from these the inmates came out to stare as we<br />

passed, assessing us perhaps with eyes that balanced<br />

apparent value against whatever of hardihood lay<br />

in our combination of looks and weapons. One tall<br />

figure in particular I noticed, running hard to get<br />

a closer look at us. He kept under cover, and<br />

thought himself unseen, and when he came slowly<br />

from behind a building next the path displayed all<br />

the indifference imaginable. Judged by his scarcely<br />

turned head and slow, lordly stride, which swung<br />

his belted Circassian cloak like a kilt, one would<br />

have thought that he hardly saw us, yet he had<br />

run like a boy for this nearer inspection. He was<br />

an old man, too, upright and thin, with clean-cut<br />

Circassian features and an eagle glance. His dress<br />

showed him to be a chief; and though he and the<br />

village would disown the robbers, I guessed they<br />

had not taken to the road without his knowledge<br />

and connivance. I gave him the morning greeting,<br />

which seemingly took him by surprise ; but he replied<br />

courteously, and then turned away like one<br />

discovered in curiosity.

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