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acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

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68 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

There were breadths of dark forest and scrub upon<br />

the slopes and a hovering cloud or two about the<br />

rocky grey 7000-feet summit ; but not a vestige of<br />

snow could be seen on this southern face, though<br />

the reverse side was white far down, as I came<br />

from Sam sun.<br />

High on the side of Ak Dagh several shafts of<br />

smoke were rising from charcoal-burners' fires. In<br />

the still air they rose vertical and unwavering, till<br />

they thinned away and became invisible against<br />

the blue backoround of distance. The mountainside<br />

which appeared so vacant and inaccessible held<br />

something living after all ! There men were working<br />

who found their livelihood among the clambering<br />

oak forests ; and as I went I found myself turning<br />

again and again to look at their columns of smoke.<br />

There is something, indeed, about a column of<br />

smoke seen upon a far-off hillside, especially a hillside<br />

covered with forest, which is likely to stir the<br />

instincts of any one. Our wild old ancestors, looking<br />

out over blind woodland from their hill-top forts<br />

and palisaded villages, took a lively interest in such<br />

columns of smoke, and saw in them much of hostile<br />

significance at times. And at a later date, not so<br />

many generations ago, bale fires ancLbeacon fires had<br />

a power of meaning for every one.<br />

So I saw the distant smok^|/6f these charcoalburners'<br />

fires always with interest and even with a<br />

touch of respect, the more so that once I had come<br />

upon a charcoal-burners' camp in these parts. Climb<br />

up the side of Ak Dagh for a couple of hours and<br />

you will find just such a group about their lair now.<br />

Three or four cutting branches with curiously shaped<br />

axes, dragging wood and building a fresh kiln ; one<br />

man perhaps asleep, for he will be busy at night.<br />

They are not only grimy, but evil-looking men whom<br />

you would not care to trust. It is possible, indeed,<br />

that having got here alone in this way you would<br />

never return. You would become the subject of<br />

consular inquiry, and at last figure as one of those

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