acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

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16 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
bazaars of Samsiin. So to carry my gear for the
present I decided on an araba, a covered spring
waggon drawn by two horses whose pace could exceed
my own. The pack-horse I hoped for later,
when the country of deep snow should be behind me.
When these matters were decided I went out to
find an araha and Moslem driver to my liking
for on a journey of this kind I would travel with
no Greek or Armenian. But on the steps of the
hotel I was stopped by a tall, powerfully-made man.
His head and neck were wrapped in a hashluk, the
picturesque supplementary cloth head-gear, at once
a cap and long-tailed muffler, that is used in these
parts as a protection against cold, and also—followingsome
strange theory—against extremes of heat.
He
was middle-aged and brown- bearded, and had an
honest face that gave an impression of good-humour
and determination. His first words might be exactly
translated by the old-time London cabman's inquiry of
"Cab, sir?" and were uttered in just the same alert
and persuasive manner. Seen among a dozen arahadrivers
at a kharij I should have approached this man
first of all. His qualifications were soon stated and
revealed. He was a Moslem, Achmet by name, v/ho
knew all roads; his horses were good— his araba
likewise ; he would go anywhere ; lie would start tomorrow
; and when snow was mentioned he remarked,
" Let us see it," in a spirit of " Let 'em all come," that
was entirely satisfactory. And the fare he asked
was reasonable, even low ; there was nothing of the
barefaced attempt at robbery which so often infuriates
the traveller who has dealings with Greek and Armenian
drivers and Mem-keepers. I engaged Achmet
forthwith to accompany me to Marsovan, three days'
journey on foot, telling him that if he pleased me
he should go farther. To this he piously replied,
" InshaUah " (may it be God's will)
The next morning Achmet called for me before
seven, and a few minutes later the araba, drawn by
two cream-coloured, well -conditioned ponies, was