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96 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT evening in the khan at Yeni Bazaar. At the edge of the Thames, in a corner of smoky, insalubrious Brentford, not easily found by a stranger, I had looked sometimes at a monument recording the doings of the same Caesar. It told that in B.C. 54 he had forced a passage across the Thames by a ford at that spot, and defeated the opposing British tribes. And a waterman with whom I once talked beside the monument had seemed to bring me almost within sight of Caesar's figure. For him "this chap Julius Caesar " was very much a man of reality. With his own eyes the waterman had seen ancient oak stakes, part of a pallisade built to defend the ford against Caesar. With his own hands, indeed—so he averred—he had helped to draw up several of these stakes on a morning, when dredging or excavation for some twentieth-century purpose had laid them bare. In support of his statement he referred me to the local museum, where I might see the stakes myself and read their story. At Yeni Bazaar Caesar became a more universal figure than ever. From Britain to Egypt, from farthest Spain to eastern Asia Minor, you come upon his name inseparably linked with obscure places. What travelling it all represented ; what voyaging under sail and oar in primitive craft ; what journeying on land by horseback, vehicle, and litter ! Of his six-and-thirty years of military activity between his first campaign in Mitylene and his death, the time he spent in actual travelling must have been no small portion of the whole. Considering his and that each country's laborious methods of travel, natural features must have required his day after day, it would seem that no one ever acquired Buch intimate knowledge of so many lands as Caesar. Had I been travelling with a pack-horse I could have gone across the mountains to Zilleh in a long forenoon, but for an araba the road was roundabout, and there and back meant three days' journey. I got no nearer to Zilleh than Yeni Bazaar. closest study,
97 CHAPTER X. A caravan track from Yeni Bazaar— French road -surveyors' camp— Bullock-carters defy the law — Turkhal and its flies — Basil and Gregory the Illuminator at Annesoi—Jelat Khan—The Imperial Ottoman Mail—Bead of evil name—Precautions—Customs of the road—Doubtful horsemen—Entering Tokat. From Yeni Bazaar in the morning, though the road was deep in dust, I had the pleasantest pathway imaginable lor nearly two hours. Stretches of similar path I had found before, but never for such a distance. It was the beaten way of caravans, beaten by hundreds of laden camels in line, each beast stepping so exactly in the leaders' footsteps that even the slightest deviations were followed. The path thus made was less than two feet in width, but in that space the surface was pounded smooth and hard as a clay tennis-court ; and on each side, several inches deep and undisturbed, stood soft impalpable dust. These clean caravan paths may be seen each morning, beaten in mud—if that is the state of the road—as well as in dust, and remain until destroyed by hoofs and wheels. Traffic of this sort is seldom far behind ; but to-day, owing to the positions of stopping-places, a wide gap existed between camels and wheels, and inserting myself therein I had the unspoilt pathway for my travelling. Six or seven miles before me the valley was closed by hills and mountains, blue and alluring under morning sunlight. It happened almost daily that G
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! 00 ' ' . ^ %ss Asia Minof P-^"^"*
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Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORO
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Digitized by the Internet Archive i
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'' " ' Across Asia Minor on t(Jom W
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; PREFACE. The journey described in
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PREFACE vii likely enemy agent. And
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— — 1 CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. A Bl
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— — CONTENTS xi CHAPTER XIII. A
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— A CONTENTS xiii CHAPTEE XXVI. T
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ILLUSTRATIONS. WESTERN PRECIPICES,
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ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT. CHAPTER
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— — THE AUSTRIAN CAPTAIN'S VIEW
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SCENES OF CENTURIES AGO 5 the Ten T
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SEABOARD OF ASIA MINOR 7 you never
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m SAMStJN ROADS 9 had seen upon it
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; SAMStJN 11 most valuable tobacco
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OUTBREAK OF CHOLERA 13 Baffra and S
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CHANGED PLANS 15 It had been my int
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AN UNEXPECTED COMPANION 17 bumping
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1^^ |Sjife^ ML. PIt i ^^^u£i.- - ^
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20 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT althou
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22 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT welcom
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24 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT For br
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A 26 CHAPTER III. and its Tipping a
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; 28 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The
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— A WEIRD BEGGAR 29 As we rose ou
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— KHAVSA 31 fitted stones, one su
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ABSENCE OF WOMEN 33 white shawls as
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DIFFICULTIES WITH CAMELS 35 the nor
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VINEYAEDS AND WALNUT GROVES 37 as m
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vStreet in Marsovan. In the Mission
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— 40 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT st
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48 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of cre
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50 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hardly
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52 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT brough
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54 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT duties
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Page 157 and 158: —; ACHMET AND THE SENTRY 117 last
Page 159 and 160: COMMERCIAL KHANS OF TOKAT 119 Here
Page 161 and 162: AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 121 It colours e
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Page 165 and 166: TOBACCO SMUGGLING 125 contrabandist
Page 167 and 168: A DANGEROUS PATHWAY 127 his judgmen
Page 169 and 170: MUSICAL BULLOCK-CARTS 129 beauty. N
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SIVAS—ARMENIAN MIGRATION 145 Turk
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1 H| . ' JF^ J ;^ ^^^^-. ^5iAi Ruin
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152 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT could
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156 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the s
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158 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to be
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— 160 CHAPTER XV. Selecting anoth
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162 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and t
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164 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ties
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166 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a sen
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168 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT salut
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176 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT mitte
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my soul!— cried Mehmet, jumping 1
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— — I 182 CHAPTEK XVII. In Tala
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184 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT over
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; ALI DAGH AND ARGAEUS 185 Cross a
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AN ARMENIAN MONASTERY 187 Rain was
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A Greek ot Talas. «f^ •• ^^t
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I'JO ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT was
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192 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT stand
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SEEING KAISARIYEH 193 cure in the w
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TURKISH MILITARY OFFICERS 195 than
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THE CASTLE AND ITS DUNGEONS 197 the
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THE SITE OF MAXACA 199 to the site
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felt, BUYING IN THE BAZAARS 201 was
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A JEW-HATEE 203 the same hidden inf
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; INDISPENSABLE LUGGAGE 205 square,
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; TIRED TRAVELLERS 207 The hours st
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A BARBER'S SHOP RECEIVES US 209 the
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THE DRUMMER OF INJESU 211 A cup of
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— 213 CHAPTER XX. I leave lajesii
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A MAGNIFICENT PROSPECT 215 I could
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A LAND OF TKOGLODYTES 21'7 himself,
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INTEODUCTION TO CAVE LIFE 219 arche
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; ROCK-HEWN HOUSES 221 mysterious f
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DOOR OF A STRONGHOLD 223 stone had
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A PLEASANT MORNING 225 for I had he
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234 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT taine
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236 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT —tw
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NAR: A PLEASANT VILLAGE 237 paths a
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Orta Hissar Rock and \'ilIaoe.
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240 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ourse
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242 CHAPTER XXII. Return to Injesu
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246 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the o
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a; 254 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT on
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258 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT outsi
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; 260 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT All
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262 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT The s
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264 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Sever
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— 266 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT i
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; AT YELATIN KHAN' 267 as wild and
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FUNDUKLI KHAN 269 ingly broken wood
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THE BAGDAD RAILWAY 271 mere goat-tr
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i 't o i .:*. :^ ,-.. 'wm
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274 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Engli
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276 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT most
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THE WIXE-SHOP AT TOSAN ALI 277 skil
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— 279 CHAPTER XXV. Ulu Kishla—
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— "GERMAN CASTLES" 281 long stops
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HOTEL DE LA GARE AT KONIA 283 and m
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! EETURN TO ULU KISHLA 285 than oth
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287 CHAPTER XXVI. Turkish officers
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INDIGNANT TURKISH OFFICERS 289 how
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TURKISH OFFICERS AND MEN 291 which
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LOULON CASTLE 293 Gates, fifty mile
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"SPOKTMEN" ARRIVE 295 with beard tu
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A DROLL TURKISH CARTER 297 While th
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; A CIRCASSIAN DICK TURPIN 299 In t
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A SINGING TURKISH BAKER 301 finds a
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ARKIVE AT DUBEKJI KHAN 303 ment cur
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Turks at Duulnji is./', :3i. Shephe
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306 ACKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT and n
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308 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT had s
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312 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT many
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314 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT old g
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— 316 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT c
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A 318 CHAPTER XXVIII. Return to the
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; THE GATE OF HOLY WAR 319 short st
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— A SACRED TREE 321 flutter of ra
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; A QUARKEL WITH KNIVES 323 gesticu
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IN THE MYRTLE SCRUB 325 We left thi
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a CONSCRIPTS ON THE ROAD 327 by ole
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RAIN-SQUALLS AND MUD 329 him, and w
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— 331 CHAPTER XXIX. An old Tarsus
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ST PAUL'S AMERICAN COLLEGE 333 voic
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a OLD TAKSUS—THE CYDNtJS 335 rich
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OLD WAYS OF TRAVELLING 337 terranea
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MERSINA 339 but the tall Swiss lady
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— THE CILICIAN PLAIN 341 land and
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s?CW Cotton Caits, CilicKm l^la '"'
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344 CHAPTER XXX. Adana— On a flat
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ON A FLAT EOOF 345 of Ala Dagh and
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ARMENIANS OF CILICIA 347 benefit th
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MAJOR DOUGHTY-WYLIE 349 and coupled
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THE GREAT ADANA MASSACRE 351 ported
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— KILLING AN ARMENIAN PASTOR 353
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— I PAY OFF IGHSAN 355 well why t
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BEITISH CONSUL GOES WITH ME 357 As
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The Consul, Ibrahim, and Mustaph: H
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" — 360 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT
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; 362 ACROSS ASIA MINOR OX FOOT Aft
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aCKOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT ^icism ov
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368 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT the f
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370 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT hours
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372 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT for m
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374 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT a hot
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376 CHAPTER XXXII. Still at Baghche
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— 378 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT o
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380 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT horse
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— 382 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT t
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384 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT now w
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386 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT to de
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388 CHAPTER XXXIII. Marash—Fanati
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390 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Armen
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392 ACROSS ASTA MINOR ON FOOT Ameri
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394 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT defia
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ACCIDEXT TO MUSTAPHA 395 plain, and
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GorPL- on load to Zt-itun.
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398 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT siUTO
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— ZEITCN town and scenes 399 bung
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"^*y^. A view in Zeitim. "The Brido
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402 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT venti
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— 404 CHAPTER XXXIV. Marash eastw
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406 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT of th
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— 408 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT I
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Ff:EDING CAMELS 409 wonld do credit
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; SYRIAN SCENES 411 the zaptiehs so
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A QUAKREL AT THE KHAN 413 after rea
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; EOAD INTO ALEPPO 415 like that of
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INDIVIDUALITY OF ALEPPO 417 stone-b
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A \ iew ot Alt'ppo Mehmet, the'Zapt
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: 428 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT Car
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430 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT perma
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— 432 CHAPTER XXXYI. A strange Ar
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434 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT while
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436 ACEOSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT tachi
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A LONG-REMEMBERED PICTURE 437 As th
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VILLAGE OF KIRK KHAN 439 to the poi
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441 CHAPTER XXXVII. Morning in Beil
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; BEILAN PASS AND VILLAGE 443 the d
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— SCENES FAMOUS IN HISTORY 445 Ci
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THE ROAD TO ALEXANDRETTA 447 thence
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TOWN OF ALEXANDRETTA 449 Nor was th
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— ALEXANDER DRUMMOND 451 such dem
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ALEXANDRETTA AS A GERMAN PORT 453 t
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BATTLEFIELD OF ISSUS 455 standstill
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A BRITISH OPPORTUNITY 457 highway r
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— ON A BRITISH STEAMER 459 other
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