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GOATS AND THE SCRUB 27<br />

innocence they had contrived to place themselves<br />

between me and the gate, and maintained their<br />

position there until I called them.<br />

Beyond the khan the road soon began to ascend,<br />

and as it did so the fog thinned, blue sky showed in<br />

the rifts, and in a little while the sun appeared. For<br />

a time we travelled in a narrow valley with scrubcovered<br />

slopes, and a stream in the bottom ; but<br />

presently the valley ended, and the road coiled itself<br />

into long loops ^vith hairpin bends to reach the pass.<br />

There was a steep direct track, going through low<br />

scrub, on the mountain-side, and up this I went in<br />

lightness of heart. Here was travellingf such as I<br />

had often sought and not often found. A wild<br />

land, a climbing mountain-path, sunshine and cool air,<br />

and upon me a strong consciousness of having got<br />

somehow into the world's earlier and more romantic<br />

days. Not a little of my illusion was due to the<br />

sounds that floated through the stillness of this green<br />

mountain-side. For I could hear Achmet crooning a<br />

plaintive Turkish melody to himself, and the jingling<br />

of his ponies ; and with his distant falsetto across the<br />

woods came the measured hollow beating of camelbells<br />

as a caravan slowly wended down from the pass.<br />

And while I stood to listen, a far-away tremulous<br />

piping struck in, not from one point only but from<br />

two—the reed-pipes of goatherd boys, sitting with<br />

their flocks about them on the sunny hillside.<br />

It is a story of that dignified and official body, the<br />

British Levant Consular Service, that a Vice-Consul<br />

began one of his official reports with this surprising<br />

and seemingly irrelev^ant paradox: "The goat is one<br />

of the curses of mankind."<br />

Now although the writer in the fervour of conviction<br />

may have plunged too abruptly into his subject,<br />

yet it would appear that he had the truth of the<br />

matter in him, at least as to parts of Anatolia. No<br />

one can see without surprise and curiosity the oak and<br />

beech scrub which covers so much of the country. It<br />

seems to consist of some unfamiliar dwarf species.

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