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220 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

keen -faced, with small black moustache, and what<br />

Americans call the ** dollar eye." Dressed in red<br />

fez, black frock-coat and trousers, and red slippers,<br />

he made altogether a typical Greek merchant of the<br />

interior. He spent much time endeavouring to sell<br />

me silk - embroidered towels and handkerchiefs and<br />

shawls, which he displayed alluringly with curious<br />

flourishes of the hand. Of more interest, however,<br />

was the information he gave incidentally of how he<br />

carried on business. During the summer he generally<br />

travelled, going wherever he thought he could<br />

profitably buy or sell ; during the winter he remained<br />

at Kaisariyeh. There were no limits to the distance<br />

he would travel in search of business. He had now<br />

come from Angora, by way of Kirshehr, on the road<br />

home, but Nevshehr had drawn him a day's journey<br />

aside—without benefit as it proved ; and that he bewailed,<br />

holding the people of Nevshehr in diminished<br />

respect. For he recognised only two distinctions in<br />

cities—where he profited and where he did not ; and<br />

only two sorts of mankind—those who bought and<br />

those who sold.<br />

When I went into the town after breakfast next<br />

morning the market - place was beginning to fill.<br />

Asses and camels were standing or kneeling in groups,<br />

stalls were being set up and loaded with goods, and<br />

many figures in bright-coloured garments were moving<br />

briskly about, for though the sunlight was clear there<br />

had been hard frost. And yet, as I noticed afterwards<br />

in this dry, high-standing region of sand and<br />

porous stone, visible signs of frost were absent. There<br />

was a keen, tingling temperature with brilliant sunshine,<br />

but until you came upon a vessel with solid<br />

ice in it, or a frozen fountain or stream, you were deceived<br />

by appearances, and never realised the degree<br />

of cold. And so this market-place, with its bright<br />

colours and camels in sunlight, looked warm and<br />

Eastern in spite of skating weather.<br />

I had not gone far in Urgub this morning before<br />

discovering why the town had looked so vague and

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