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CHAPTER XVIIL
Ighaan begins his duties — Fever at the khan — Seeing Kaisariyeh
— Salutations— Self-conscious Turkish officers— At the Mosque of
Houen—The castle—Dungeons— On the castle tower— The site of
Maxaca— St Basil and Coesarea—Buying in the bazaars— " Another
Englishman has come"—A dinner-party at the khan—A Jew-hater.
I TOOK my gear into Kaisariyeh by araha, and put up
at the Yeni Khan, purposing to spend only two or
three days exploring the city. I was anxious to
get on the road with the pack-horse, and see just
what that form of travelling had in store for me, the
more so that some had predicted trouble.
Ighsan arrived punctually on the day appointed.
He put off his shoes at the door, and kneeling before
me placed my heavily booted feet on his head and
shoulders and embraced my knees.
It was embarrassing,
and I had difficulty in preserving not only my
dignity but also my physical balance, for in raising
my* feet he almost tilted me backwards over the
stool on which I sat. He was promising faithful
service, however, and I would interrupt no rites havingl
that for their purpose, so kept a solemn face
while propping myself ludicrously with one hand.
But again I seemed to find in him cause for serious
misgivings. He mumbled dreadfully, and was inclined
to shed tears. More than ever I had the
picture of him giving out on the road and having
to be nursed. I resolved to feed him well, notwith-