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acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

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22 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

welcoming host, and yet one who stood upon a certain<br />

dignity. He would have nothing to do with handling<br />

baggage. That was the work of underlings — perhaps<br />

his sons— who would look for tips when I left, and<br />

whose opportunities of earning them were not to be<br />

diminished by the master's interference. Meanwhile<br />

another underling, with the unmistakably horsey air<br />

of an ostler despite his enormously baggy breeches<br />

and beslippered feet, helped Achmet to unharness.<br />

He was called Ali, was thin-featured and dark, and<br />

a glance showed him to be a man of distinctive<br />

personality and master of his calling. As if entirely<br />

for his own information, he ran a quick hand down<br />

the fore-leg of one pony. Then he threw each long<br />

trailing tail into a loose knot, gave each beast a<br />

friendly punch in the ribs to start it from the shaft,<br />

and led the pair to the stable with an accompaniment<br />

of soft whistling that doubtless meant something to<br />

himself and them. In the stable, Achmet, as careful<br />

owner, rubbed down the ponies, and gave them<br />

barley ; but Ali returned to the yard, and pushed<br />

the araha about, getting it into position for the<br />

time when the whole space would be packed with<br />

vehicles. As a last duty he unshipped the pole and<br />

placed it on the ground between the wheels. He then<br />

was free to resume his stool beside the entrance, and<br />

roll another cigarette, and drink another small cup of<br />

black coifee.<br />

While these scenes went on below, and the luggage<br />

was being carried upstairs, a tall young odahashi,<br />

or room attendant, took me to a room. He produced<br />

a bunch of big keys, unlocked the door, and<br />

flung it open with a flourish ; for it was " the best<br />

room in the inn," one, moreover, in the position of<br />

chief honour, being above the entrance archway.<br />

Floor, walls, and ceiling were of unpainted boards.<br />

For blinds the windows were screened by lengths of<br />

dirty white cotton nailed along the top. Dust lay<br />

thick on the floor and rickety table, the only article<br />

in the room except a red earthenware pitcher. On

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