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acrossasiaminoro00chiluoft

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AINTAB 407<br />

So In a little while he stopped short, and laughed,<br />

and gasped '^Eferin!" being at heart a sportsman;<br />

and then, as a second thought, asked if I were<br />

" Ingleez." I appreciated Eferin ! coming from him,<br />

for it means " !<br />

Bravo " therefore I shook his hand,<br />

and gave him ''Eferin !'' in turn, and let him know<br />

that I was used to this sort of making haste, whereas<br />

he was not.<br />

With that we sat on boulders and smoked<br />

my cigarettes till Mustapha came up wide-eyed, and<br />

broke into one of his rare contagious laughs.<br />

The day had been hot and clear and windless,<br />

until a district of rolling downs and bright red earth<br />

was reached ; but then the sky darkened, heavy<br />

sleety rain came on, and the temperature fell as if<br />

upon entering a freezing chamber. Such weather<br />

they tell you to expect in Northern Syria at this<br />

time of year. But you do not credit its changes and<br />

the sudden extremes of heat and cold except after<br />

experience. It made good its reputation for me<br />

now, however, for when I entered Aintab about five<br />

o'clock the sun was shining hotly again, the road<br />

drying and red mud caking on my clothes. The<br />

road of my entering led straight to the American<br />

College, at the edge of the town, and there I presented<br />

myself, stiff with dried mud, but was made<br />

welcome in the ready and hearty American manner<br />

as one who had "just blown in."<br />

Aintab stands in a shallow valley surrounded by<br />

downs, showing rich red earth wherever ploughed,<br />

and here and there planted with pistachio orchards.<br />

The town is built of stone, and is clean, and has an<br />

air of brightness and openness not often found in<br />

Turkish towns. Of fifty or sixty thousand inhabitants<br />

more than a third are Armenians, who are<br />

prosperous, and some even wealthy, to whom in<br />

large measure are due the favourable characteristics<br />

of the place. Such Armenians usually have ideas,<br />

and a sense of citizenship, and where, as here, they<br />

possess the power, do not tolerate the dirt and<br />

squalor which Moslems accept as a matter of course.

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