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FOETS—IBRAHIM PASHA 313<br />

of people from the hot Cilician plain. Hither they<br />

come two days' journey by araha, and live for six<br />

weeks or two months in flimsy dwellings among the<br />

pines and rocks and mountain air, finding that length<br />

of change from the plain necessary each year. Now,<br />

also, I could make out the fortifications erected along<br />

One was a castle,<br />

this historic pass at various times.<br />

standing on the eastern skyline, a structure designated<br />

now by Ighsan and others as merely ''Kale"<br />

or Castle, sufficient name amongst an incurious race.<br />

And next appeared various Egyptian fortifications,<br />

very much out of latitude according to one's general<br />

conception of Egypt and the Egyptians.<br />

They were evidence of the Egyptian Occupation, a<br />

queer topsy-turvy period of Turko-Egyptian history<br />

which ended so recently as eighty years ago. It<br />

makes a chapter of almost medieval adventure and<br />

adventurers : of Egypt, an Ottoman province, invading<br />

and conquering Syria and the south-eastern part of<br />

Asia Minor; of Ibrahim Pasha as chief and highly<br />

capable adventurer on the Egyptian side ; and of the<br />

Ottoman Empire more helpless than at any time of<br />

its existence. Now and then, too, crops up, on the<br />

Turkish side, the name of Helmuth von Moltke ;<br />

and now occurs the incident of this officer, destined<br />

to future greatness, riding in desperate flight before<br />

Egyptian cavalry after the battle of Nisib, on the<br />

Euphrates, east of Aintab. Moltke, it would seem,<br />

has had something to do with German aspirations<br />

in Asia Minor.<br />

Ibrahim Pasha was served by French engineers,<br />

who fortified the Cilician Gates according to the<br />

best military art of the time. The forts remain,<br />

guns and all, much as when the Egyptians withdrew<br />

in 1841. There is a story that the guns are<br />

British, and show the British broad arrow, which<br />

sounds curious when it is recalled that England and<br />

France intervened to save the Ottoman Empire from<br />

the victorious Egyptians, and bombarded Beirut to<br />

that end. I had promised myself to examine these

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