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278 ACROSS ASIA MINOR ON FOOT<br />

light wines, native and European Greeks at mastica,<br />

and all of them at cards. They were not late<br />

drinkers, however, and I slept well enough among<br />

the sacks of potatoes and garlic and tins of kerosene<br />

which crowded the floor.<br />

But when it came to payment in the morning<br />

a serious difference arose between the host and<br />

myself. His demand was that I should pay for<br />

four beds ; but for me he would have filled four beds<br />

in the room, he said—which I had good reason for<br />

disbelieving. To strengthen his claim he alleged<br />

that I had consumed his potatoes and garlic. He<br />

was a Greek and therefore an opportunist, and I<br />

did well to get off with paying only four shillings<br />

for room space and cold water.<br />

My dispute with the fellow, however, was mild<br />

compared with Ighsan's. He had been grossly overcharged<br />

for horse feed, and now all the conscious<br />

dominance of Moslem and Turk flamed up in an explosion<br />

of wrath which transformed him. He literally<br />

foamed at the mouth. He was not to be robbed by<br />

any "Rum" on earth. Boiling with rage he took his<br />

startled opponent by the beard, and vigorously sawed<br />

the edge of a hand across his throat in illustration<br />

of what should be done with a knife. Even when<br />

we reached Ulu Kishla in the afternoon, Ighsan<br />

had not recovered his equanimity. A good-looking<br />

serving-lad of the kha7i stood leaning casually against<br />

the wall, apparently expecting him to carry my<br />

luggage upstairs. With scorn Ighsan inquired his<br />

country.<br />

" Selefke," returned the youth pertly, still not<br />

offering to stir. With that the old man flung the<br />

loaded hahe across the lad's shoulder and led him<br />

by the ear to the staircase, and saw to it that he<br />

did his duty from first to last.

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