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Ff:EDING CAMELS 409<br />

wonld do credit to any country. Mustapha, unfamiliar<br />

with such highways, called it at once the " (hm.ir yol,"<br />

or iron road, and complained that it was bad for the<br />

feet. It went between red, gently undulating do^-ns,<br />

planted with lentils, pistachio, vines, and wheat, and<br />

in the west were glimpses of the Araanus mountains<br />

and the lower parallel range of Kurt Dagh. All day<br />

long on leaving Aintab we travelled southward upon<br />

this splendid road, through the same pleasant fruitful<br />

country, in a brilliant atmosphere that was cool,<br />

with three thousand feet of elevation yet filled with<br />

hot sunlic'ht And then as the sun huncf low over<br />

Amanus, and the wheat -fields rippled under the<br />

stroncjer breeze of eveninf>:, we reached Besh Geuz<br />

Ktian (the Khan of Five Eyes) standing among<br />

rolling wheat.<br />

A great and unusual uproar among camels in the<br />

yard took me out at dawn next mominsr to learn the<br />

cause, for the noise they made would have supported<br />

any theory of disaster or battle. They were merely<br />

being fed, however, in a way I had never seen till<br />

now, though I had heard about often. The regular<br />

winter food of camels upon the road is dough made<br />

into balls large as a fist : but now for some reason,<br />

though other food was plentiful, these beasts were<br />

still getting dough, and objected strongly- By the<br />

screaming, ^-oanincr, and snortincf that went on, one<br />

would have said they were hieing tortured. And<br />

torture the process of feeding looked indeed. With<br />

ricfht arm bared to the shoulder, a camel-man would<br />

take a ball of dough from the heap in a great pan<br />

and thrust it down the camel's gullet as far as he<br />

could reach. It was necessarv to get the ball beyond<br />

a certain point, he explained, or the beast would be<br />

unable to swallow it.<br />

The crood road, the t^lorious weather, and limitless<br />

wheat, which grew taller and taller the farther I went<br />

south, continued aU the next dav. Olive orchards<br />

now began to appear on low slopes facing the sun.<br />

The trees were planted in rows, and many looked

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