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TURKISH TROOPS ON CHAMLI BEL 135
natural features—small wayside villages could not
have existed. Out of sight, and a mile or two from
the road, however, seemed to make all the difference
in risk ; weary soldiery were disinclined to stray
far from the shortest route and spend time and
energy in uncertain quest, and those who did were
few and might be overpowered. Thus it is that
in spite of appearances you find villages in surprising
numbers tucked away behind rocks, in folds, in
glens, on inaccessible ledges, even on mountain-tops,
all visible only when you come upon them. Armenian
and Greek villages especially are fond of so concealing
themselves.
As I took my first steps down the other side of
Chamli Bel a column of Turkish troops appeared ;
they were not a hundred yards away, coming smartly
up the slope, and I could not have avoided them
even had I been so minded. Turkish troops of any
sort met on country roads have a bad reputation with
travellers, especially troops under orders for the
Yemen. An Armenian or Greek spying troops
on the march turns off into the hills or other
safe place betimes, for to him they are a certain
danger. At best they have sunk their individual
friendly natures in the boisterous emotion of a crowd,
and are prone to playful devilment which may easily
pass into tragedy ; but if going to the Yemen they
are likely to have murder in their hearts. For to
a Turk service in the Yemen means odds of ten to
one against return, as he knows by the example of
his relations ; and in consequence he is often ready
to perform any deed that will divert him from that
service, even to a long term of imprisonment instead.
Each year there is killing, of officers or others, by
troops ordered to Arabia.
So I saw these approaching recruits without
curiosity or pleasure, and wished them well out of
my way, the more so that they were unaccompanied
by any officers or gendarmes. Seen together they
made as wild -looking and ill-favoured a company