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The Highland monthly - National Library of Scotland

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2o8 <strong>The</strong> <strong>Highland</strong> Monthly.<br />

in a straight line— the track, generally speaking, is a semi-<br />

circular one, with the convex side to the east, so that at<br />

night the wind or stars afford little or no help ; they are,<br />

on the contrary, very misleading. I may add that adven-<br />

tures in this ford, similar to that I am about to relate, are<br />

not at all uncommon, and they are sometimes, though<br />

fortunately rarely, attended with fatal results.<br />

I have said that we—the driver and myself— left the<br />

inn at Benbecula about half-past one o'clock. I have also<br />

said that the night, or rather the morning, was clear and<br />

starry, with a fresh westerly wind blowing. We discovered<br />

the guiding^stones easily enough, and all went well until we<br />

crossed the Gramsdale ford. Soon after doing so, however,<br />

we lost sight <strong>of</strong> the stones, but expecting to find them<br />

again before proceeding far we continued our journey for<br />

about half-a-mile over an unbroken plain <strong>of</strong> sand, but<br />

without seeing either stones or any other object which<br />

would enable us to ascertain whether we were going in the<br />

right direction or not. By this time I observed that the<br />

night was no longer clear, for the stars were not visible,<br />

and a heavy fog was gradually rolling in from the Atlantic.<br />

Still we continued our journey at a smart trot, feeling no<br />

uneasiness, as we hoped to be able to retrace our steps if<br />

necessary to Benbecula, which was still visible through the<br />

darkness and fog, though gradually becoming less distinct.<br />

In a few minutes more we came to a group <strong>of</strong> scattered<br />

rocks, which the driver carefully examined, but which he<br />

failed to recognise. We wandered among these rocks for<br />

some time endeavouring in vain to find out our where-<br />

abouts. <strong>The</strong> driver then suggested that we should proceed,<br />

and he confidently remarked that we were undoubtedly<br />

going in the right direction. So proceed we did. It struck<br />

me at this time that we kept too far to the left, or in a<br />

westerly direction (for I had <strong>of</strong>ten before now crossed the<br />

ford by day, though never by night), but assuming that the<br />

driver was conversant with all the turns <strong>of</strong> the ford, I made<br />

no remark. Subsequent events, however, proved that my

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