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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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1 I 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

<strong>in</strong>fluenced <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> position of <strong>the</strong>ir towns. That of Bamla is situ-<br />

ated on a ris<strong>in</strong>g ground, comm<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g a<br />

very extensive view of <strong>the</strong><br />

level, open country, by which it is surrounded on all all sides.<br />

As we had brought with us our own bedd<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r conve-<br />

niencies, we were soon settled <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> convent, which afforded us<br />

noth<strong>in</strong>g but <strong>the</strong> bare walls ; <strong>and</strong> hav<strong>in</strong>g procured provisions, <strong>the</strong> cook<br />

whom we had taken <strong>the</strong> precaution to br<strong>in</strong>g with us, began his operations,<br />

<strong>and</strong> soon supplied us with a good d<strong>in</strong>ner. After hav<strong>in</strong>g taken<br />

this refreshment, we went <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> town, <strong>and</strong> saw <strong>the</strong> female <strong>in</strong>ha-<br />

bitants busied <strong>in</strong> mak<strong>in</strong>g a k<strong>in</strong>d of cotton cloth for <strong>the</strong>ir garments.<br />

We next proceeded to <strong>the</strong> bazar, or market, which was but <strong>in</strong>dif-<br />

ferently supplied with a few fruits <strong>and</strong> vegetables, such as dates,<br />

figs, lemons, cucumbers, &c. We observed several date-trees,<br />

with fruit on <strong>the</strong>m, distributed among <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>gs ; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir appearance,<br />

thus blended as <strong>the</strong>y were with <strong>the</strong> houses, was extreme-<br />

ly picturesque. Without <strong>the</strong> town we noticed a small pottery for<br />

<strong>the</strong> fabrication of vases to hold water. Bamla was anciently a city,<br />

but is now an open town onlv, under <strong>the</strong> government of <strong>the</strong> Pacha<br />

of Jerusalem <strong>and</strong> Gaza, Mahomed Pacha.<br />

In this place <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>arets of <strong>the</strong> mosques differ very essentially<br />

from all those we had before noticed. It conta<strong>in</strong>s three convents<br />

for <strong>the</strong> reception of <strong>the</strong> pilgrims on <strong>the</strong>ir way to <strong>the</strong> holy city.<br />

It was pa<strong>in</strong>ful to me to observe that <strong>the</strong> disease of <strong>the</strong> eyes, so<br />

common <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>se countries, prevailed verv generally, <strong>and</strong> that with<br />

great violence, among <strong>the</strong> poorer classes at Bamla. Both young<br />

<strong>and</strong> old were alike afflicted by bl<strong>in</strong>dness. This was not surpris<strong>in</strong>g<br />

s<strong>in</strong>ce it was easy to trace <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir squalid <strong>and</strong> meagre countenances<br />

<strong>the</strong> manifest causes of disease, namely, <strong>the</strong> want of a good,<br />

nourish<strong>in</strong>g diet, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> necessary cloth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

to encourage <strong>and</strong> keep<br />

<strong>the</strong> excretions of <strong>the</strong> sk<strong>in</strong>. The dress of <strong>the</strong> females- consisted<br />

up<br />

of a blue cotton chemise only, resembl<strong>in</strong>o- <strong>the</strong> frock of an English<br />

peasant, <strong>and</strong> reach<strong>in</strong>g nearly to <strong>the</strong> ancles, with a broad belt, or<br />

girdle,<br />

fastened about <strong>the</strong> waist. The men were dressed <strong>in</strong> a simi-<br />

lar manner, but with a white <strong>in</strong>stead of a blue chemise, <strong>and</strong> were<br />

for <strong>the</strong> greater part without shoes.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g we paid a visit to Mahomed Pacha, a great fa-<br />

vourite of <strong>the</strong> Vizier, <strong>and</strong> very useful to him <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> country, as a<br />

collector of <strong>the</strong> tributes* His reception was of <strong>the</strong> most friendly<br />

k<strong>in</strong>d; <strong>and</strong> he offered us every assistance on our route, promis<strong>in</strong>g to<br />

,;end forward a messenger to give notice, at <strong>the</strong> places through<br />

which we were to pass, of our approach, toge<strong>the</strong>r with such or

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