Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

SYE.IA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 313
Two light-houses arc erected at Scio to direct the course of the
vessels sailing into the harbour,
in which several caicks and other
vessels were lying at anchor at the time of our arrival. As soon
as we bad dined, the consul conducted us to a spot near the sea-
shore, where a considerable number of Greeks of each sex were
assembled to celebrate the festival to which 1 have already alluded,
and to display their 'line dresses, which is every where one of the
predominant passions of that nation. It was truly a gay and
lively scene, which might have vied with that of our Kensington
Gardens, or of the Park of St. James, in the season favourable to
promenades. Several hundreds of females, in the dress I have de-
scribed, were assembled; and throughout the company there was
a general air of neatness, combined with great decorum of conduct.
Several circular dances were formed according to the usage of the
Greeks.
On the 1st of May, having procured mules, we made a morning's
excursion into the interior of the island, to visit the Greek
convent at Nehahmonee, distant from the town of Scio about five
miles. The road over which we had to pass was rocky, and in
every respect so bad, that our mules employed a space of two hours
and a half to reach the convent. On our arrival we entered the
chapel, which is beautifully ornamented with mosaic work, formed
of tine specimens of the different marbles collected in the island.
These marbles are disposed with great taste, more especially in the
dome of the chapel, where they arc blended with pieces of co-
loured glass, and of gilt stone, retained by a kind of cement, so
as to represent a variety of scriptural subjects and figures. Each of
the bits of glass, or portions of stone, does not exceed in its square,
the fourth part of an inch; and the whole must have been wrought
with immense labour.
Within the walls of the convent, which was founded by Con-
rtantint the Great, there is a fine cistern, or reservoir,
of excellent
water, collected partly by the rains, and partly from a spring situa-
ted at its inferior part. Its dimensions are fifty feet by thirty ; &nd
the roof, which forms a kind of terrace to intercept the rains in
their descent, is supported by two rows of columns.
On our quitting
the convent, we ascended the mountains in its
viciniry, which are extremely loftv, and have their rocky surfaces
covered with firs. The valiies, which are laid out in corn-fields
and vineyards, have a poor and steril soil, which is only rendered
in any degree productive bv great labour and perseverance. Fig,
( 40 j
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