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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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254<br />

TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

of wallow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> water, over <strong>the</strong> surface of which <strong>the</strong> head<br />

onlv is to be perceived.<br />

Menouff like all <strong>the</strong> towns of <strong>in</strong>ferior note <strong>in</strong> <strong>Egypt</strong>, is pr<strong>in</strong>ci-<br />

pally composed of mud huts, which make a very wretched ap-<br />

pearance.<br />

It conta<strong>in</strong>s a manufactory of mats, executed with great<br />

taste <strong>and</strong> neatness, <strong>and</strong> well adapted to <strong>the</strong> climate of <strong>Egypt</strong>.<br />

At half past n<strong>in</strong>e <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g we quitted that place, <strong>and</strong> at<br />

<strong>the</strong> expiration of nearly two hours entered <strong>the</strong> western, or Rasetki<br />

branch of <strong>the</strong> Nile. In consequence, however, of <strong>the</strong> immense<br />

quantities of water which had overflowed <strong>the</strong> surround<strong>in</strong>g country,<br />

<strong>and</strong> by which <strong>the</strong> greater part of <strong>the</strong> villages were <strong>in</strong> a manner<br />

isolated, <strong>and</strong> st<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> midst of immense lakes,<br />

it was ex-<br />

tremely difficult to ascerta<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> boundaries of <strong>the</strong> river. Such only<br />

of <strong>the</strong> villages as were situated on an elevated ground were capable<br />

of resist<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> devastat<strong>in</strong>g effects of <strong>the</strong> waters.<br />

.. At five <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon we arrived at <strong>the</strong> village of Benofah,<br />

<strong>and</strong>, hav<strong>in</strong>g l<strong>and</strong>ed, found <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habitants busied <strong>in</strong> prepar<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong>digo, of which a great consumption is made throughout <strong>Egypt</strong>.<br />

I have already touched on <strong>the</strong> processes employed, <strong>in</strong> detail<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />

particulars of my visit to Heliub ; but on this latter occasion I was<br />

enabled to exam<strong>in</strong>e <strong>the</strong> cakes procured from <strong>the</strong> sediment of <strong>the</strong><br />

beaten <strong>and</strong> macerated plant.<br />

If greater pa<strong>in</strong>s were to be bestowed<br />

by <strong>the</strong> natives of <strong>Egypt</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> manufacture of this dye, <strong>the</strong> qua-<br />

lity of <strong>the</strong> plant from which it is obta<strong>in</strong>ed is so good, that it would<br />

become a very valuable <strong>and</strong> extensive article of commerce.<br />

Hav<strong>in</strong>g passed <strong>the</strong> night <strong>in</strong> our boat, we prosecuted our route at<br />

five <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g of die 5th, <strong>and</strong> arrived at noon at Foua, situ-<br />

ated on <strong>the</strong> eastern banks of <strong>the</strong> Nile, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Delta, which had<br />

formerly been a place of very<br />

considerable commerce. The build-.<br />

nigs it conta<strong>in</strong>s are far superior to those which are generally met<br />

with <strong>in</strong> <strong>Egypt</strong>, <strong>and</strong> of a much more cheerful appearance, be<strong>in</strong>g<br />

constructed of a reddish brick, po<strong>in</strong>ted with mortar. At this<br />

place, which had still an air of carrv<strong>in</strong>g on an <strong>in</strong>considerable share<br />

of traffic, we halted for about an hour, <strong>and</strong> were charmed by <strong>the</strong><br />

pleas<strong>in</strong>g aspect of <strong>the</strong> surround<strong>in</strong>g country, which was <strong>in</strong> a high<br />

state of cultivation, <strong>and</strong> supplied with a greater variety of trees<br />

than we had hi<strong>the</strong>rto observed. With<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> town <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habi-<br />

tants were busied <strong>in</strong> prepar<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> flax, <strong>and</strong> extract<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> oil<br />

from <strong>the</strong> seeds. We observed several plantations of rice <strong>and</strong> sugar-<br />

M canes.

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