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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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TRAVELS IN ASIATIC "TURKEY,<br />

he wrote <strong>the</strong> Revelations; <strong>and</strong> after we had l<strong>and</strong>ed, we saw <strong>in</strong><br />

walk<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> summit of <strong>the</strong> hill, <strong>the</strong> grotto <strong>in</strong> which he is said<br />

to have composed <strong>the</strong>m. We next visited <strong>the</strong> convent, which<br />

has a resident bishop, with a considerable number of monks, <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>in</strong> which is a college for <strong>the</strong> education of <strong>the</strong> young men of <strong>the</strong><br />

Greek persuasion. Over <strong>the</strong> gateway of <strong>the</strong> entrance are three<br />

large bells; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> chapel with<strong>in</strong> has a neat mosaic pavement. In<br />

ascend<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> road w<strong>in</strong>ds considerably, <strong>and</strong> presents<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rwise great difficulties, <strong>in</strong>somuch that it cost us no little labour<br />

to reach <strong>the</strong> summit. In those parts of <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong> which <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ha-<br />

bitants were able to cultivate, we saw several small fields, or<br />

patches of corn, banked up with stones to prevent <strong>the</strong> soil from<br />

be<strong>in</strong>g washed away by <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong>s: it appeared, however, that it was<br />

capable of produ' <strong>in</strong>g but an <strong>in</strong>considerable quantity of gra<strong>in</strong>.<br />

The town, which conta<strong>in</strong>s about two hundred houses, all of<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir provided with balconies, is, as well as <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong>,<br />

<strong>in</strong>habited exclusively by Greeks. The women are to <strong>the</strong> men <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> proportion of five to one. They are pretty ; <strong>and</strong> wear on <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

heads a high turban of a peculiar form, made of white crape, a<br />

narrow slip of which falls down beh<strong>in</strong>d, <strong>and</strong> nearly<br />

reaches <strong>the</strong><br />

ground. The <strong>in</strong>habitants procure sheep <strong>and</strong> cattle from <strong>the</strong><br />

neigh-<br />

bour<strong>in</strong>g isl<strong>and</strong>s, <strong>the</strong>ir own be<strong>in</strong>g so barren as to make but a scanty<br />

return to <strong>the</strong> labour <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry <strong>the</strong>y bestow upon it. It was very<br />

late before we returned to <strong>the</strong> transport, extremely wearied with<br />

our even<strong>in</strong>g's excursion, <strong>and</strong> highly pleased, at <strong>the</strong> same time, at<br />

<strong>the</strong> opportunity which had been afforded us to l<strong>and</strong> on so celebra-<br />

ted a spot.<br />

Early <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> 22d we weighed anchor, <strong>and</strong> sailed<br />

with a steady <strong>and</strong> favourable w<strong>in</strong>d at north-west, which, at a<br />

quarter before three <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon, conveyed<br />

us to our anchor-<br />

age off Stancho, a very beautiful <strong>and</strong> fertile isl<strong>and</strong>, abound<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong><br />

corn, fruits, <strong>and</strong> vegetables. Among <strong>the</strong> fruits which were <strong>in</strong> sea-<br />

son, we saw, on our l<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g, grapes, figs, lemons <strong>and</strong> oranges <strong>in</strong><br />

abundance. We also met with capers, which grew wild, <strong>and</strong> required<br />

no culture. Over <strong>the</strong> pla<strong>in</strong>s numerous flocks <strong>and</strong> herds were<br />

dispersed.<br />

After <strong>the</strong> usual ceremony of salut<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> fort, we' waited on <strong>the</strong><br />

governor, who with great civility sent a person to aecompanv us to<br />

<strong>the</strong><br />

gardens, <strong>in</strong> which we had a very agreeable walk, <strong>and</strong> were<br />

conducted <strong>the</strong>nce to <strong>the</strong> house of <strong>the</strong> late Capitan Pacha, <strong>the</strong> great<br />

Hassan Pacha. In pass<strong>in</strong>g through <strong>the</strong> town, we saw several

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