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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 85<br />

towns <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turkish prov<strong>in</strong>ces, to levy contributions, <strong>and</strong> take <strong>in</strong><br />

a supply of biscuit for <strong>the</strong> voyage.<br />

The wea<strong>the</strong>r was at this time become warm, settled, <strong>and</strong> agreeable.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> course of <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g, a party be<strong>in</strong>g made, we took<br />

boat, <strong>and</strong> crossed over to <strong>Asia</strong>. We l<strong>and</strong>ed near <strong>the</strong> ru<strong>in</strong>s of an<br />

ancient imperial palace, over which we walked. On our penetrat<strong>in</strong>g<br />

-<strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> country, we found <strong>the</strong> state of vegetation several<br />

weeks more advanced than on <strong>the</strong> European side. The fields were<br />

overspread with flowers <strong>and</strong> odoriferous shrubs <strong>in</strong> bloom; <strong>the</strong><br />

wheat was already formed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> ear ; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> grass <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> meadows<br />

nearly fit for mow<strong>in</strong>g. In short, <strong>the</strong> general appearance of<br />

<strong>the</strong> country, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> smil<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> verdant scenes by which we were<br />

surrounded, formed altoge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

a<br />

strik<strong>in</strong>g<br />

contrast to what we had<br />

recently contemplated on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side of <strong>the</strong> water. We walked<br />

over <strong>the</strong> pla<strong>in</strong> of <strong>the</strong> ancient Chalcedon, on <strong>the</strong> site of which<br />

st<strong>and</strong>s a Turkish village, called Cadi/ Kui. There, beneath <strong>the</strong><br />

shade of <strong>the</strong> branches o{ a f<strong>in</strong>e oriental plane tree, we took our<br />

coffee on <strong>the</strong> grass, absorbed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> contemplation of <strong>the</strong> objects<br />

by which we were encompassed. In addition to <strong>the</strong> f<strong>in</strong>e prospects<br />

which <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>terior of <strong>the</strong> country afforded, we had a dist<strong>in</strong>ct view<br />

of <strong>the</strong> gulf of Nicomedia, <strong>and</strong> of <strong>the</strong> Dcemonesi, or Pr<strong>in</strong>ces' 1<br />

Isl<strong>and</strong>s. If we could judge from <strong>the</strong> numerous groups of men <strong>and</strong><br />

women scattered over this delightful country, it must have been well<br />

peopled. Among <strong>the</strong>m I saw, for <strong>the</strong> first time, a Turkish woman<br />

at her pravers, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> open field. Such an <strong>in</strong>cident, which is<br />

very<br />

common among <strong>the</strong> men, very rarely occurs among <strong>the</strong> females.<br />

Towards <strong>the</strong> afternoon <strong>the</strong> wea<strong>the</strong>r became oppressively hot ; <strong>and</strong><br />

this hastened our return at three o'clock, when we took boat to<br />

cross to <strong>the</strong> European side.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> 30th letters were received from Capta<strong>in</strong> Lacy, <strong>and</strong><br />

from Mr. lilorier, secretary to Lord Elg<strong>in</strong>, who had spent some<br />

time with <strong>the</strong> Turkish army, with <strong>the</strong> details of <strong>the</strong> defeat of <strong>the</strong><br />

army of <strong>the</strong> Gr<strong>and</strong> Vizier, by <strong>the</strong> Trench troops comm<strong>and</strong>ed by<br />

General Kleber.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> 1st of May, garf<strong>and</strong>s<br />

of flowers were hung over <strong>the</strong> doors<br />

of several houses, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> suburb <strong>in</strong> which I resided, <strong>in</strong> commemoration<br />

of <strong>the</strong><br />

day. I was told that <strong>in</strong> several parts of <strong>Turkey</strong>, more<br />

particularly at <strong>the</strong>Pr<strong>in</strong>ces1 Isl<strong>and</strong>s, this festival was celebrated by<br />

<strong>the</strong> Greeks <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs by great public rejoic<strong>in</strong>gs.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g dav, <strong>in</strong> walk<strong>in</strong>g through <strong>the</strong> streets <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> vi-<br />

c<strong>in</strong>ity of Tophana, I saw a great number of sheep collected <strong>in</strong> pens

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