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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 1 2J<br />

ture, toge<strong>the</strong>r with a considerable number of marble <strong>and</strong> granite<br />

columns, of <strong>the</strong> Cor<strong>in</strong>thian order, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r architectural de-<br />

corations.<br />

The Greek <strong>and</strong> Armenian priests enterta<strong>in</strong>ed us with coffee <strong>and</strong><br />

sherbet <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir respective chapels. They told us that after <strong>the</strong><br />

French had l<strong>and</strong>ed <strong>in</strong> <strong>Egypt</strong>, <strong>the</strong> Turks had, on a plea of suspi-<br />

cion that <strong>the</strong> monks <strong>in</strong> general were not entire strangers to <strong>the</strong> plans<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>tentions of <strong>the</strong> enemy, searched <strong>the</strong>ir monasteries for arms,<br />

papers, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r concealed effects, <strong>and</strong> had obliged <strong>the</strong>m to seek<br />

refuge <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> build<strong>in</strong>g over <strong>the</strong> holy sepulchre. They had <strong>the</strong>re<br />

threatened to br<strong>in</strong>g cannon aga<strong>in</strong>st <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>and</strong> put <strong>the</strong>m to death,<br />

<strong>in</strong> case<br />

<strong>the</strong>y should refuse to open <strong>the</strong> door of <strong>the</strong><br />

build<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong><br />

surrender <strong>the</strong>mselves. In this alarm<strong>in</strong>g crisis <strong>the</strong>y were providen-<br />

tially saved by a Turkish santon, or fanatic, who took his station<br />

on an elevated part of <strong>the</strong> city, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>re harangued <strong>the</strong> Mussul-<br />

meri <strong>in</strong> behalf of <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>isters of <strong>the</strong> Christian Gospel, rem<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong>m that, hav<strong>in</strong>g searched <strong>the</strong>ir monasteries, <strong>the</strong>y had nei<strong>the</strong>r<br />

found arms nor any o<strong>the</strong>r object which could lead to suspicion, <strong>and</strong><br />

recommend<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong>m to desist, <strong>and</strong> permit <strong>the</strong> unfortunate priests<br />

to return to <strong>the</strong>ir convents. The effect of this exhortation was,<br />

that <strong>the</strong> multitude laid aside <strong>the</strong>ir sangu<strong>in</strong>ary pursuit, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

monks were permitted to return quietly to <strong>the</strong>ir homes. They<br />

were not ungrateful for <strong>the</strong>ir deliverance, but collected a considera-<br />

ble sum of money for <strong>the</strong> santon, which he with great delicacy re-<br />

fused.<br />

On our return we d<strong>in</strong>ed at <strong>the</strong> convent with <strong>the</strong> holy fa<strong>the</strong>rs, <strong>and</strong><br />

proceeded afterwards to <strong>the</strong> General's lodg<strong>in</strong>g, where <strong>the</strong> visit of<br />

<strong>the</strong> Mufti, who came thi<strong>the</strong>r to his<br />

pay respects, was shortly<br />

after<br />

announced. This personage, who seemed to carry terror <strong>and</strong> dis-<br />

may <strong>in</strong> his countenance, told us, that it was impossible Jerusalem<br />

should ever be taken, as <strong>the</strong>re were seventy thous<strong>and</strong> prophets, on<br />

<strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side of <strong>the</strong> Dead Sea, ready to come forward for its protection<br />

<strong>and</strong> defence. He also declared to us, that it was recorded<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> sacred<br />

writ<strong>in</strong>gs,<br />

that <strong>the</strong> English <strong>and</strong> Turks had been friends<br />

for more than a thous<strong>and</strong> years. He was not only supreme of <strong>the</strong><br />

church, but held <strong>the</strong> office of cadi, or judge.<br />

On his departure we returned <strong>the</strong> visits of <strong>the</strong> Greek <strong>and</strong> Arme-<br />

nian clergy. The Armenian church, a f<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> elegant structure,<br />

was ornamented by several good sciiptural pa<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong>gs. The fa<strong>the</strong>rs<br />

po<strong>in</strong>ted out to us <strong>the</strong> spot where <strong>the</strong> head of St. James was depo-<br />

sited, after he had been decapitated at Caissa,

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